What another great start to the year. Climbers kept us on the edge of our seats right past the end of the month as reports continued to flow in through Tuesday of new ascents and feats. With Bouldering Nationals and great weather in most parts of the world, there was a lot of fun being had.
Hot Sends
Chris Sharma – Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15):
Anyone remember that massive roof in a cave on private land in Arkansas that has a single massive problem on it? Remember when Chris Sharma had dreads? Well, back in 2005, this test piece was one of the first V15’s in the U.S. and Sharma cleaned it (after getting permission from the land owner) and sent it calling it Witness the Fitness. It was mind blowing the amount of control that he needed to keep his feet and butt off the ground for 20+ moves. Now that he has moved to Spain and settled in Catalunya, he found another cave, reminiscent to that long forgotten problem and paid appropriate homage to his own test piece 11 years later to start the new year off right. Witness his fitness after all these years!
Jimmy Webb – The Game (V15):
After tearing apart the Southeast, Jimmy Webb traveled to Boulder Canyon, Colorado to take a look at The Game. He claimed the fourth ascent of the next-level problem after four days of effort. While working it, he said on his Facebook that the problem was not his style at all making it one of his hardest personal ascents, and his 10th V15. While in the canyon he also wanted to try a new Dave Graham V13 called Barrel Rider. After his effort on a foreign style, Barrel Rider, was right up his alley giving him his 12th V13 flash.
Alban Levier – la Force (9a/5.14d):
Just before Christmas, Alban Levier claimed the third ascent of l’integrale du toit d’Orsay in France. It consists of a link up of Act 1 (V10/11) and Act 2 (V13) coming out of a near horizontal roof receiving a route grade of 8c+ (5.14c). In January, Levier added a tougher finish through a link-up of Morpheus (V9) plus the other two to add a grade to the whole mix. What can we link up next, and when exactly does a line stop being a boulder problem and start becoming a route?
Guillaume Glarion Mondet – Le Pied a Coulisse (V16):
Fontainbleau is known for its wide variety of difficult problems in a dense boulder field. Still, even after decades of climbing there it seemed that the potential may have been tapped out and that the few V15’s the area had would still leave even professioanl climbers content as it is the regional benchmark. Now we can a V16 to list. After three years of work, Glarion-Mondet added his masterpiece to the canvas of Font. It shares the start holds of Chaos (V13) but trends much further left to attain a radical sloping lip and no-hands slab finish.
Colin Haley – Solo Torre Egger:
Perhaps the most difficult summit of the entire Torre Group in Patagonia, and certainly one of the least climbed due to its difficulty, has finally seen a solo ascent. By combining several routes up the face, by way of the first solo ascent of Punta Herron. The real spiciness was on the descent when his rope got caught while trying to pull it from the rappel station, but after almost 2 hours of tugging and bouncing on the line, it came loose and he could continue down safely.
Alban Levier – l’Alchemsit (V15):
After sending la Force, Levier traveled to Font and looked up at one of the hardest problems in the forest and certainly with the most storied history. Armed with the better beta from Nalle Hukkataival, he completed the problem in a few days. Originally, the problem was given a V13 rating, but after key holds were chipped, it lay unrepeated form 19 years. Now two ascents within a few months of each other may have taken away the stigma, especially when Nalle declined to grade it. Levier confirmed rumors of a major upgrade by giving it V15.
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USAC Bouldering Nationals:
Adult Bouldering Nationals was held on January 29th and 30th giving us a terrific ending to the month and starting a changing of the guard in bouldering championships. After nine (9) years of ruling the circuit, King Daniel Woods and Queen Alex Puccio were dethroned late Saturday night. Competition was fierce all weekend and head route-setter, DC local Jeremy Hardin, put together a series of problem that provided a great equalizer and showed who the best boulderer in America really is. For the ladies, Puccio was climbing strong until getting stopped up on Women’s #2, ending with a major glute cramp before the top. This gave way for her protege, Megan Mascarenas, to flash the first three problems and have the second highest point on Women’s #4 for the win. Alex managed to stay on the podium in second and 18 year old Claire Buhrfeind took third.
For the Men, Jimmy Webb started in 7th and failed to even make the first move on Men’s #1, but then proceeded to flash the remaining three problems landing him in 2nd overall. Carlo Traversi climbed consistently through all rounds and made the podium in third. Nathaniel Coleman, on the other hand, at age 17 seemingly out of the woodwork (if you conveniently forget his youth accomplishments), dominated and came out way ahead despite some struggle on Men’s #3. Daniel Woods was not so lucky, entering Finals in 5th and finishing in 4th. A new generation is upon us and any hope I had of being a late 20’s phenom is going out the window.
Charles Albert – Barefoot l’Alchemist (V15):
After waiting almost 20 years since the first ascent, l-Alchemist has become a much more popular problem with its second ascent last year by Nalle Hukkataival. For the fourth ascent of the problem, using the original exit after some holds had been mysteriously chipped over a decade ago, barefoot climber Charles Albert shows us exactly why he is so good, and not only that, he proposed a downgrade to V14. Is barefoot the future of hard climbing? Maybe, since our toes are far more capable than shoes if only we commit to raining them.
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Calls To Action
Castle Rock, Idaho:
The bolt ban has been lifted at Castle Rock, ID, after four months of no bolting. The Superintendent of Castle Rock National Park had placed a temporary moratorium on bolting while they worked on an updated and revised climbing management plan. Thanks to efforts from local organizations Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, East Idaho Climber Coalition, Boise Climbing Alliance, Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund have created the Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) to continue the land management for the 21st century and our growing community.
Local Events
Winter Burn – Philadelphia Rock Gym, Valley:
January 16 – The second stop for the Burn series, hosted by Philadelphia Rock Gyms, and certainly a welcome one as the cold started settling in to the region. This just meant that competitors were met with a deep field of good climbers all vying for a spot on the podium. While it may not have been Bouldering Nationals, that didn’t stop everyone from trying their hardest. While PRG locals Zoe Steinberg and Solomon Barth took first overall, Earth Treks alum and Crank Climbing support Stephanie Carras landed in third for the women. Crank Climbing Team member Justin Meserve was unable to make finals but still looks to be on solid ground in the rankings.
Crank Candy
Zlagboard:
Seriously, who doesn’t love to do some hangs and pull-ups on a wooden hangboard? The best training board and program has finally been made available in America! Zlagboard comes with its own mounting hardware, a stand for your smart phone, and access to their full network of training regimens. Want to try the workout Alex Megos uses? It’s on there. Just starting out and do a pull-up yet? They have a workout for you too. Track your progress against your personal best and along with other users. The smart phone app senses the second you start and end your hang so that you can’t cheat the clock either. Training just got smarter!
Check it out!
Community Losses
Richard Wright:
Late December and early January took many heroes from entertainment from us due to cancer and the climbing community lost its own legend. After three years of fighting mantle cell lymphoma, Richard Wright passed away in the comfort of his own home, surround by loved ones. He is best know for the development and writing of guidebooks for the Front Range of Colorado including the meccas of Rifle and Clear Creek Canyon. Always positive and happy to share beat and psych, he was loved by anyone who came in contact with him and were touched by his sincerity and passion. He was 66.
Susan Sarossy:
Respected local and mother Susan Sarossy fell 170 feet from the second pitch anchors of Appendicitis in Diablo Canyon, New Mexico. She and a group of friends had been top-roping the double pitch route via two ropes tied together. In the twilight of the day, Susan went up to clean the anchors but fell right behind her friend. A figure-eight on a bight was clipped to her harness so it is assumed that she had attempted to pass the rope through the anchors to rappel and instead passed the tag end. CPR was administered on sight since there was still a pulse, but she was later pronounced dead at 5:15pm. Susan was 59.
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Coming Attractions
Heart Burn – Philadelphia Rock Gym, East Falls:
February 20 – The Burn Series continues at the third and newest PRG location that is dedicated to bouldering. The parking may be terrible, but the features of the gym are worth the trek to downtown Philly. Interested in attending? Register below and hit us up to carpool!