Hot Sends
Alex Megos:
He went on a tear, a new location every week and new “hardest in the area” every week. The very definition of going ham. Usually I try to write by send date, but this is a special occasion. His tick list is below by location in his own private section.
Frankenjura – Supernova (5.15a/b):
A full grade above the hardest route in the region and it only took him five days of effort. He equipped and sent the new routes Modified (5.15a) and Classified (5.15a) along with sending area classics including Action Directe (5.14d) in a couple hours.
New River Gorge – Super Pod (5.14d):
The route was originally equipped in 1992 and has waited for 23 years for a send. Two grades harder than the established 5.14b’s of the Summersville Lake Area, it is impressive because we all know how sandbagged the Gorge actually is. In five he sent a total of 12 classic routes; one 5.14d, four 5.14b’s, four 5.14a’s, one 5.13d, one 5.13b, and one 5.13a. Can you say best New River Trip ever?
Meadow River Gorge – Pebble Project (5.14c):
Another project bolted in 2009 that only took two tries for this powerhouse after only one rest day from New River. He then sent another standing projects Replicant and Fruity Pants, giving them 5.14a and 5.13c repectively. This is in addition to another 5.14b, a 5.14a, a 5.13d, and a 5.13c for total of seven routes including three projects in five more days.
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Red River Gorge – Your Heaven, My Hell (5.14d):
With nary a rest after his New River/Meadow River trip, Alex busted over one state to settle the score with a personal project in the Red, Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d), the benchmark for the grade in the area. On the same wall was a standing project tentatively graded 5.15-, but Alex sent and called 5.14d. That’s two 5.14d’s one the same day after being on for 12 days prior.
Count ’em up; nine first ascents in one month ranging from 5.13d to 5.15a! This kid is next level!
David Lama – Baatara Gorge, Avaatara (5.14d):
In Lebanon there is a miraculous un-climbed gorge of beautiful limestone. Set against a water fall backdrop in a sinkhole, this new line has the majesty and adventure to last a life time. But why am I talking, take a gander at the video and hear it from Dave himself.
Ashima Shiraishi – Nuclear War (V14):
At age 14, this female phenom sent her second V14, Nuclear War, and not only is it the second ascent of the Matt Bosley test piece, it is also the first female ascent. On the same day she also sent Wetness the Fatness (V12) and Worthless (V11) making for a stellar day for the young lady.
Niky Ceria – Voyager Sit (V14):
Is there anything more subtle and frustrating than the UK’s gritstone? First sent by Ben Moon in 2006, the line remained unrepeated and not for lack of trying. Niky tried the stand start variation in 2010 and was unable to send, but returned in 2011 and made it happen. Over the next few season he sussed out the sit start move and when he pulled on in 2015, he sent first go.
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Calls To Action
Ragged Mountain Purchase:
The Ragged Mountain Foundation (RMF) has secured the purchase of the North End from the town of New Britain, CT. It was in part thanks to a $4000 grant from the Access Fund to the RMF and facilitated over a two year period by David Fasulo. The purchase includes a 1.221 acre area with an established 45 routes along with 56 acres of hiking lands. Another area saved!
Unaweep Canyon Transfer:
Since 1990, the Access Fund has controlled the conservation of Unaweep Canyon including 8major cliffs with over 200 established routes and 50 acres of trails. Over the years as these assets have been gathered and grown with the help of the Western Colorado Climber Coalition (WCCC). With the WCCC having been responsible for local fundraising, the Access Fund has finally turned over the the conservation and stewardship to WCCC and its President, Jesse Zacher. Just another example of local volunteers stepping up to protect our valuable resources.
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Local Events
Earth Treks Timonium – Halloween Party
October 27 – Earth Treks may not have been able to put on a decent comp in a few years but they know how to throw a party. Crate stacking, different Firecrackers all the way up the pump wall, a dyno comp, costumes, sweet decorations, and candy. What more could you want for a weeknight celebration? Keepin’ it real, guys.
PRG – Midnight Burn
October 31 – It has been a long time since the Midnight Burn has been held on Halloween but the competitors did not disappoint. Many chose to climb in costume while the DJ spun Halloween song requests, including my favorite “Everyday is Halloween” by Ministry. Perhaps the best news of the day was that Crank Climbing Team member Justin Meserve made final for the time ever despite about 10 years older than the average age of the other finalists.
Results
Crank Candy
Not a lot of new products for climbers this month, though Petzl has released a new line of worker harnesses and bags, but that does not really apply to us. Here is what I will offer, a little shameless promotion since I expect all the new ice gear to come out later this month for Thanksgiving shopping.
Temps are dropping to perfect sending conditions and maybe you need a spare pad to fill a hole on your project’s LZ? Perhaps it is your first time climbing outside and you need a pad to join your friends? What if you finally decided to take that road trip but you don’t want to spend $35 for the guidebook?
We can help! We have been collecting pads from retiring climbers all over the area and we have plenty to go around. Some are for rent and some will be for sale. Our guidebook library continues to grow and we are happy to share the knowledge. Check out our Rental Page for more deatils and take your pick. many of these pads are classics and we have a large variety to suit any of your needs from highballs to dirt burglars to traverses.
RENT!!!
Community Losses
Angus Moloney – Boulder, CO:
A full week after the discovery of his body at the end of September, it was published that the climber found at the base of Fifth Pinnacle in Colorado’s Flatirons was 22-year old Angus Moloney of Montreal. It appeared that he had fallen nearly 100 feet while free soloing the Gregory Flatironette. Anyone familiar with the area knows that it can be treacherous with loose rock and one slip can mean a mean gravel ride. It is with sadness that a youngster is taken from us, but please let this loss be a lesson; protect your route.
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Coming Attractions
Mid Atlantic Climbers Adopt-a-Crag:
November 14 – Join the MAC at Northwest Branch near Washington DC for the final Adopt-a-Crag event of 2015. We start at 8:30am and work until lunch. After some swag raffles, let’s go bouldering! MAC has had an Adopt-a-Crag here for the last few seasons and the area is really coming along so help contribute to a great local crag.
Triple Crown – Horse Pens 40:
November 20-22 (or 25) – Usually the final event, but due to weather concerns for Hound Ears (TWICE!) this is the second stop in the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Join the Crank Climbing Team for the event or tag along for our Thanksgiving trip with stops at Stone Fort (LRC) and Obed, TN on the way home.
-Tylor Streett, wishes he could shake hands with Alex Megos so that maybe some of his greatness will rub off.
