Hot Sends
Laura Rogora – La Gasparata, 5.14c:
Not only was this route a first ascent in the La cueva area of Collepardo, Italy, but it is now the hardest first ascent by a woman. Oh, and she is only 15 years old! earlier this month she sent two 5.14b’s in one day (T-1 Full Equipe and Fish Eye) and the 5.14c Joe Blau in Oliana, Spain. She is the European version of Ashima Shiraishi by becoming the first Italian female and second youngest athlete to climb 9a/5.14d last year, is the Italina Youth Champoin in Bouldering and Sport along with place third in the 2016 Youth World Cup. She is definitely going to be a contender in the Olympics in 2020. Watch out, U.S.A.!
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Seb Bouin – La Novena Enmienda, 5.14d/5.15a:
While training for a trip to France to attempt La Rambla, Seb sustained a finger injury and had to put off trying the notorious 5.15a. Instead pulling on the tiny crimps and big moves, he elected for the more “subdued” La Novena Enmienda in Catalunya. And in a hilarious humble-brag, he claims that he is “…ok with sending the route, even though it is not near his limit.” Yeah, we’re all so sorry you can only send 9a when you are hurt. Care to share some of that strength and power, Seb?
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Stefano Ghisolfi – First Round, First Minute, 5.15b:
A fourth ascent of one of the hardest lines in the world, and apparently a standard for Spain, was completed by 24 year old Italian Stefano Ghisolfi giving him his second 5.15b. With his friend and the routes third ascensionist Alex Megos on belay. He put the moves together in just two days and, after a 3 day rest due to rain, and sent later in the week in humid and damp conditions.
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Calls to Action
Rumney, NH – Final Frontier Purchase:
The Access Fund started the year off very well with an announcement of the confirmed purchase and acquisition of a large swath of land in Rumney’s Northwest Crags (a.k.a. The Final Frontier). Over $100,000 was raised in just 11 months for the purchase of the 85-acre parcel that could have gone to real estate development. The Rumney Climbers Association (RCA) will work with the Access Fund in 2017 to properly manage the land before it is turned over directly to the RCA. What a great victory!
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Red River Gorge, KY – Bald Rock Recreational Preserve:
If you have ever been to the Red River Gorge, then I am certain that you have climbed at the Motherlode wall. If you haven’t, please stop reading this dumb blog and go climb there immediately. The Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition (RRGCC) and the Access Fund have secured the Bald Rock Preserve Recreational Area to the tune of $235,000. This 102-acre area includes the classic walls of Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, Bear’s Den, and Unlode with both sport and trad routes ranging from 5.2 to 5.14. This brings the total acres owned by RRGCC to 1,162 and therfore ensuring a massive area stays protected.
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Drilling in National Parks:
After the change in administration and the Republican Party securing its majority in the House and Senate, but before the executive order to stop lobbying congress was signed, our National Parks were targeted as a prime resource for oil and natural gas. Basically, this is bad news and will destroy critical environments and also make battles for preserving our playgrounds even harder. All user groups need to come together and stop this action.
Mid-Atlantic Climbers Membership:
Seriously ya’ll, join. By registering through Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) you not only become a member of a local organization but also a part of the Access Fund with your dues going towards events, education, and land purchases and preservation. If you want to stay climbing outside this season, help us out!
JOIN
Local Events
PRG Winter Burn:
Comp #2 of the Burn Series is in the books and sadly it did not have the turn out that it usually does from other gyms with mostly locals attending. It can be attributed to two factors; the first is that anyone outside of PRG still does not understand the weird scoring system that PRG uses to “level the playing field.” Dave Roland attempted to explain it me one day and then it ended in a shouting match followed by apology beers and cheers. Essentially, it’s based on the number of people that attend and the overall percentage breakdown thereof rather than a range for each difficulty level. The second reason is probably because it was in the low 50’s that day and most of us smarticles decided that climbing outside in January was a way better treat than a comp. Still, the series pushes on with the final qualifier this month and finals in March.
RESULTS
Crank Candy
Crank Climbing Book Library:
The Library has expanded significantly over the last year to include more guides, more training books, and even expanded to include some choice outdoor selections for rest days. While prices may be listed for your use, we are also happy to exchange use of the books for beer and beta on areas we don’t have books for. A funny realization that I came to while updating the list is that several of the books are no longer in print (and even more surprising is that some of them are going for hundreds of dollars online)! I know that we are in the digital age, but I have such an affinity for books where I can write my own notes and see the wear of the cover and pages for my favorite areas. Just like the old pads that I have collected, these books have memory and stories and I will continue to collect books until my book shelf collapses.
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| Seriously, I saw this going for $193.00 on eBay. |
Community Losses
The British are Falling:
Please forgive the atrocious sub-title, but in reality the only reports we saw of climber deaths were three British men. The first was on January 2nd on Gaustatoppen, an 1800m peak in Norway. He fell 30m to a ledge and a rescue helicopter was summoned but forced back to severe wind. When a rescue was mounted again the next day, he was declared dead upon retrieval and his body was sent home. The second occurred in the Scotish Highlands on January 6th when a climber fell into a col between Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag peaks while descending. A helicopter was able to pick him and his partner up but the man was later pronounced dead at the hospital. The third happened on January 12th in Alicante, Spain on the Penya Roc formation. He fell 150 feet, striking the rack face several times before hitting the ground. He was airlifted to a nearby hospital but ultimately passed due to cardiac arrest at the hospital. All three men were in their early 50’s and no names were reported.
READ MORE – Norway
READ MORE – Scotland
READ MORE – Spain
Roland Pauligk:
The classic initials, RP, stand for one of the most innovative pieces of climbing gear as for their creator. Roland Pauligk began making his brass chocks to protect the thin cracks of Mt Arapiles near his home in Australia as an alternative to pins and bolts. The pliable metal meant that a fall could leave the piece in the rock forever, but no damage was done to the rock itself. These pieces were essential in the 70’s and 80’s and were at the forefront of hard routes all over the world as hammering fell out of vogue. All of his pieces wer hand made in his shop up until just a few years ago when he had to stop production due to his battle with cancer. At the age of 79, he passed quietly surrounded by family.
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Coming Attractions
PRG Heartburn:
February 18th – Do you love bouldering more than your significant other? Well, if you do then this is the comp for you (or at least bring them along for a unique date idea). Head up to PRG East Falls in what can only be described as a boulder training paradise complete with top-out, slab, and high-ball boulder sections, this gym has it all. Register early for a sweet t-shirt and as always, the best beer in Philly will be flowing for those over 21.
REGISTER
Climbnasium Frostbite:
February 25th – Returnign for yet another year (and being pushed later in the calendar thanks to the late date of the previous comp), is the classic Frostbite Bouldering Comp. Go climb in the slightly warmer (unless you are on the third level) inside Climbnasium barn and be humbled. If you thought PRG was tough, these cats set comparable to Governor Stable and Whiskey Springs; powerful, crimpy, and plenty of grease. It’s also one of the cheaper cops in the area and cafe downstairs makes a mean sending chili and cornbread.
REGISTER
-Tylor Streett, is glad to be back writing, but not sure if he can keep up with his own intended pace.