On Being a “Multi-Sport Athlete”
Last week, I ran 50 miles at the Lake Martin 50/50. I wasn’t the fastest, not by a long shot, but I wasn’t one of the DNF’s either on a…
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April 15, 2026
On Losing A “Third Place”
2025 ended two months ago and I am still reeling, struggling to put all the pieces of a life that I had built around climbing over the years. It was…
March 2, 2026
Another Math Post – The Scaled Combined
A while back we previewed the new Boulder + Lead format, and had some opinions. While I continue to disagree with some of the scoring of the individual events, I…
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August 19, 2023
The Boardclimbing Paradox
Training. noun - The systematic act of applying a stimulus to get better results somewhere, either directly (bench pressing to get better at bench pressing) or indirectly (bench press to…
July 23, 2023
Bonfire Thoughts
“Oh, let’s go up the hill and scare ourselves,As reckless as the best of them to-night,By setting fire to all the brush we piledWith pitchy hands to wait for rain…
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June 17, 2023
Combined Scoring II: Electric Boogaloo
In the words of Professor Farnsworth, We're free! By that we mean speed climbing is going to get its very own Olympic medals, and then bouldering and sport climbing will…
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April 27, 2023
JMC: The Overwhelming Weight of Ability
Chapter 1: Before the Send You know what Jams My Cams? Being able to do something. Now before you break out the magnifying glass to find the World's Tiniest Violin…
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February 25, 2023
Movement Summer Smackdown: An Exercise in Compromise
Compromise. It's what happens when there are multiple groups with disparate wants or needs, and you must find an equitable solution in the dissonance. The entitled class sometimes whines, and…
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August 20, 2022
Love, Hate, Love: A MoonBoard Review
Layne Staley might have said it best: "I tried to love you, thought I could. I tried to own you, thought I would." If you think that you are going…
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August 1, 2022
An Open Letter to the IFSC
It is time for something radical. Something monumental to push the sport of competitive climbing forward. Something no one would expect but that would also be a welcome shot of…
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June 12, 2022