It would seem an obvious assumption that people want to be good at what they enjoy.  For climbers, this can mean a variety of things; getting stronger, expanding their disciplines, overcoming one or multiple fears, and so many more.  In nearly 15 years as a climber I have worked with a variety of individuals with an even wider variety of goals.  The one truth that I have found is that all of these goals have been achievable with the right focus points and the right system, the trick is finding that system.

For me, climbing was the first sport that I ever wanted to actually train for in all facets, all of which will be discussed below, but first, a little personal history.  My friends and I were introduced to the sport through Boy Scouts and it was originally just a fun activity.  Upon learning that competitions were a thing, I set my sights on that track.  In my early pursuits as a competitive climber I was behind the curve having started at age 14 rather than age 9 or earlier like many of the young athletes I was surrounded by.  In the American Bouldering Series (ABS) 4, I knew I was still learning and would be crushed, but I pushed past that fear and entered in the citizens’ competition instead as a Novice.  My only competition that year was at my home gym and I placed 16^th.  I loved every second of that day and I still wear the shirt with a smile.  I started studying how to train for the next season and when the next home competition came around I had learned quite a bit and put as much time on the wall as my parents could allow.  I won the Novice division that year and felt the satisfaction of having put work into a goal and to be rewarded with success.  My friends and I got our licenses and started going to the gym more.  I purchased a hangboard and convinced my parents to let me hang it in the house.  I got a job at my home gym and worked as the youth program instructor for two years, including holding the Assistant Coach position under two different Head Instructors.  I read, and I practiced; I observed, and I tested; I got injured, and I recovered; I listened, and I passed on that knowledge.  When I transferred schools I joined the adventure sports competitive team for climbing.  I have acquired a few titles from college and as a citizen and I have had my butt served to me on a platter with full garnish.  As I started to travel during my college years to new places outside of my local crag (Rocks State Park, MD), my attention turned toward projects and training to have a good road trip.  My scholastic pursuits shifted to study better training and conditioning methodologies and help more people feel the same levels of achievement that I did.  I became a personal trainer and completed my MS in Exercise Science.  Methods have changed as our knowledge of the human body increases and even this system might be out-of-date in a decade.  The beauty of the system now is that it is based on the most up-to-date research by the National Academy of Sports Medicine (NASM™) and can be endlessly amended as new studies enhance how we train and progress.  As a NASM-Certified Personal Trainer (CPT), Performance Enhancement Specialist (PES) I have adapted their techniques for performance enhancement to apply directly to climbing.  By combining that central idea with everything that I have learned, I have been able to develop a system to meet a wide variety of goals and help make anyone, at any level, in any discipline a better climber.  Please, enjoy.

What we will look at first are the different characteristics of what makes an athlete with respect to climbing.  Let me start by saying that everyone that participates in a physical sport is, in fact, an athlete.  Whether you are in it just for the recreation or to compete, you are an athlete working to achieve a goal, even one as simple as getting to the top of a rock.  Looking below we can see the heart and five points of a star each with separate yet interrelated piece of the picture.  If you take away one piece, the puzzle as a whole starts to look wrong.  A rough outline of each characteristic is below, but I will explore each piece in detail in the coming months with assessments and explanations for every part.

Climbing – At the heart of the model is the climbing, the reason we are all here.  Time on the rock or wall is crucial to developing your skills and strength.  It is also the largest and most complicated piece with three (3) aspects and nine (9) sub-aspects.

Mental – All of the thought that goes into the sport with the sub-aspects of Sequencing, Needs Awareness, and Anxiety Control.

Technique – The work that goes into the execution of proper movement with the sub-aspects of Footwork, Body Position, and Terrain.

Expertise – Your familiarity and range with various climbing disciplines with the sub-aspects of Style, Experience, and Strength.

Core – When most people think of the core they imagine the iconic 6-pack.  The truth is, the core is far larger and extends to all points of the body.  It connects our toes to our fingertips and helps direct every action.  Therefore, the aspects of the Core are much more comprehensive including Awareness, Balance, and Directional Force Control (DFC).

Campus – Using a broader definition, in this model any pulling action that relies solely on the upper body without assistance from the legs for upward movement is considered a campus action.  Hangs, pull-ups, and system rungs are all incorporated into the three aspects of Control, Accuracy, and Contact Strength.

Cardio – A good cardiopulmonary base is crucial to any sport.  Our muscles and brain need air and blood so a solid cardio program will only improve the aspects Lungs/Air (capacity) Heart/Blood(stroke volume), and Management.

Care – One piece that is frequently overlooked is how well we take care of ourselves.  Just like with everything else in the world, you will be rewarded as a direct result of what you put into your endeavors.  This is broken down into the three aspects of Diet/Hydration, Recovery, and the tongue-in-cheek piece of your Extracurricular Activity.

Conditioning/Corrective – The final piece must be as constant as the others, but is also the most adaptable.  For the most part we look at the three aspects of Posture, Kinematic Balance (antagonist muscle groups), and building neuromuscular pathways through Other Activities.  Should an injury occur, we can modify the aspects as needed, even if that need is simply Rest.

Readers can look forward to self-assessments on each of these characteristics in the coming months along with in-depth analysis and explanations.  Once the ground work of education and understanding of the model, and of your personal needs, has been laid, we will explore the Crank Cycle of training to keep you moving forward and progressing.  I am very excited about this program and I hope that you are too.

-Tylor Streett, MS, NASM-CPT, PES