Hot Sends
Emily Harrington – Golden Gate (5.13):
Six days on the wall and Emily Harrington shows us why she is one of the best female free climbers out there. Yosemite granite is one of the toughest on the planet and she left plenty of skin on the four 5.13 pitches and the monster off-width but she still led every pitch. After her friend, Hazel Findlay, claimed the first female send of the route in 2011, she encouraged Harrington to give it try and it became a project. Even this late in the year, Yosemite is still seeing top notch ascents from big names.
Adam Ondra – FLASHES Jade (V14):
Dave Graham found and cleaned it in 2001
Daniel Woods showed it was possible in 2007.
Alex Puccio opened it for women in 2015.
Adam Ondra gets the first flash in 2015.
Dave Graham’s jaw hits the dirt in shock the same day. (So did mine when the news was published)
Horst Family – Frankejura, GR:
Mid-Atlantic locals and icons Eric, Lisa Ann, Cam, and Jon are always ready to impress. This year, instead of Mid-West family vacation, they headed to Frankenjura, Germany for some European style fun. Big lines were ticked up to 5.14b, too many to mention here, but the full list for each is available in the link below. It’s always great when locals can hang with the big boys, especially when half of them are just kids. Stay strong guys!
Mason Earle – Heart Route (V10/5.13b):
There are still plenty of lines left to go free on El Cap in Yosemite, and while the world held its breath and celebrated the biggest send of the century on the Dawn Wall, a quiet little team has been working another beautiful line for the last four seasons. Originally put up in 1970, this 22 pitch beast was thought unable to be completely free climbed because of a 10 foot lateral dyno. Earle’s partner, Brad Gobright, did every move except for the dyno.
Jonathan Siegrist – I Am the Walrus (5.14b):
His stellar three month trip through Europe kept us riveted as every few days there were reports of another supremely difficult line bowing before him. Even though he sent way harder lines across the pond, the real story is the process that one has to go through to equip a route in Colorado’s Flatirons. He started the process in 2013 with applications and permits, bolted the route, but then had to leave it unfinished as life and travel caught up. The fact that it remained waiting for him this long is another surprise, but conditions were right and the line has seen its first ascent.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/514b-and-more-h%C3%B6rst-kids-frankenjura
Stefano Ghisolfi – Biographie (5.15a):
This might be our last report on Biographie, not because it isn’t hard or iconic, but because it is slowing becoming the 5.15a trade route. Even though 99.9% of the climbing community doesn’t have a prayer, the fact that this report was so short and no pics or video except that of a bigger name from 14 years ago (OK, it’s Sharma) means that it is losing its luster, even though it only took him six days of effort. Don’t get me wrong, I am still very impressed, but climbing media as a whole may be losing interest in the line. Still, good on ya’ Stefano for stepping up your game!
Nacho Sanchez – Monkey Wedding (V15):
After putting up Spain’s hardest boulder problem in May, Sanchez headed south to Rocklands, South Africa and earned the fifth ascent of Monkey Wedding. With big names like first ascensionist Fred Nicole, Ondra, Robinson, and Woods attached to the problem it was no doubt a proud moment. The next day, Nacho took down another great test piece, Golden Shadow (V14).
Calls to Action
Palisades Park, AL;
The Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) has done it again. Palisades Park was a small, often forgotten area becuse much more popular destination like HP40 and Chattanooga are so nearby. However, it is the same rock type and quality that you expect from the southeast and there are a handful of fantastic boulder problems and routes. Climbing in the park was threatened as the park hosts a variety of other activities, but the SCC and AccessFund has stepped in to shoulder the repsonsibility of both keeping people safe and increasing the scope of the land usage contract and climbing permit. Information on routes is found in The Dixie Cragger’s Atlas and boulder problems are detailed in the back of the Horse Pens 40 Bouldering guidebook.
AAA Wall Re-opened, Marquette, MI:
Triple A Wall was closed to climbing last year when the land owner, Longyear, Realty Corporation, decided the liability was too great. After some dedicated work with Upper Penninsula Climbers Coalition (UPCC) and the AccessFund, Triple A has been re-opened for at least year with locals footing the bill of $5,000 for liability and safety coverage. You can help protect Triple A by donating to annual amount by following the link below!
Local Events
National Trails Day – Carderock, MD:
June 6 – Dozens descended to Carderock, MD, probably one the most popular climbing and day hiking areas near DC, for National Trails Day. Two very large piles of mulch were waiting to be distributed over the areas of heaviest use. If you have never had the chance to witness a tarp chute flowing with much from the top of a cliff the bottom, then you missed your chance and should come out next year because it pretty baller. Trails were greatly improved and the whole DC metro area should be thankful that these dedicated few took their morning to do great work. Naturally, climbing came later in the afternoon after some victory snacks and drinks.
RockFest 2015:
June 24-26 – Well, this event was cancelled due to severe storms, but it will be rescheduled in the Fall. It’s a shame because the great work that Mid-Atlantic Climbers does is always needed in such an expansive park. A new date will be scheduled in the Fall.
Crank Candy
Dick’s Nut Tool:
This new tool is not only useful, but it’s also hilarious. Created by Dick Cocksure (*ahem) in late 2014, it went into prototype this year. This tool has everything; an ergonomic handle, a bottle opener, and a of course, the actual nut tool tip. You can donate to the Kickstarter campaign by clicking the link below and get your very own Dick’s Nut Tool, but if you do anything, at least watch the video.
Community Losses
Seriously, did I miss something? After a terrible month in May with some heart wrenching news about big names and big numbers, I read no reports of any losses. I hope I am right, but if not, please leave the names of our fallen brothers and sisters in the comments and due respect will be paid next month.
If I am right, then way to go! We are not in this alone so all I can say is thank you to every partner for helping to keep each other safe.
Coming Attractions
Earth Treks Timonium Smackdown Finals:
July 18th – If you are an ET member, you do not want to miss this party. Finals for the Summer Smackdown competition start at 6:30pm and afterwards is a big members only extravaganza!
PRG Sunburn:
July 25th – This event is one of the best competitions around because it’s actually five in one. Bouldering, slab, top-outs, dynos, and routes, plus the overall score. After the comp, burgers and beer from Slyfox make the day.
-Tylor Streett, does too much research and mot enough writing and apologizes for being late yet again.