Alpine bouldering. First Ascents. Controversy. Free Films. Welcome to Abyss, a 47-minute feature film produced by Louder Than Eleven and posted free to YouTube. Mount Evans is unique that you…
What is the optimal haircut for climbing? What should I ask for the next time I walk into Hair Cuttery? Just kidding - I'm an athlete, and we go to…
Oh boy, where do we begin. Just a month before the debut of climbing in the Olympics, the IFSC World Cup stopped into Innsbruck for a bouldering, lead, and adaptive…
If you know anything about sport climbing in the United States, then you know that Smith Rock is the birthplace of hard sport in the 80’s. Ushered in by a…
This is the first ever training program review from this blog and perhaps it won't be the last. I will be looking at the pros and cons of the program…
When you make as many films as Brian Solano did, you got a lot of footage. Some gets used, much does not. Rather that hide the B-roll away, why not…
A personal history of my encounters with something unapologetically old school. "You gotta come to this comp. Well, its not a comp. Its an epic. 5 hours man. Routes, slabs,…
So you want to compete? Well, take it from me, it's a good time. I've lost track of how many competitions I've been in over the last 17 years, but…
"You know what Jams My Cams? Pants. Hear me out. Pants are the most underappreciated and under-served climbing clothing." I wrote that line more than a few years ago in…
Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change and the Race for 5.14I had just started getting into climbing right after 5.15 was realized in 2001, pardon the pun, with Chris Sharma’s ascent of Biographie. It…