Do you remember the first 9A boulder? No, not Nalle Hukkataivals Burden of Dreams, the one in Font. No, not No Kpote Only. Nicolas Pelorson downgraded that. No, not Soudain…
What is the optimal haircut for climbing? What should I ask for the next time I walk into Hair Cuttery? Just kidding - I'm an athlete, and we go to…
Oh boy, where do we begin. Just a month before the debut of climbing in the Olympics, the IFSC World Cup stopped into Innsbruck for a bouldering, lead, and adaptive…
A personal history of my encounters with something unapologetically old school. "You gotta come to this comp. Well, its not a comp. Its an epic. 5 hours man. Routes, slabs,…
So you want to compete? Well, take it from me, it's a good time. I've lost track of how many competitions I've been in over the last 17 years, but…
"You know what Jams My Cams? Pants. Hear me out. Pants are the most underappreciated and under-served climbing clothing." I wrote that line more than a few years ago in…
You know what Jams My Cams? Poor Quality. Quality matters. Where I work, our priorities are, in order: employee safety, part quality, and delivery schedule. When I climb those priorities…
A Report on What to Expect When You're AscendingWhen I wrote Part 2 back in May, I had thought, like most of us, that the worst of Covid-19 was behind…
You know what Jams My Cams? Dabbing on an overzealous spotter. What makes a good spot to you? Much like shouted encouragement, or how much "penalty slack" is added to your…
How to Safely Return to Climbing after LockdownWho's ready?Two months ago, gyms across the world shut down. Major outdoor destinations were asking for visitors and tourists to go home. Access…