Hair! (Not just a Musical)
What is the optimal haircut for climbing? What should I ask for the next time I walk into Hair Cuttery? Just kidding - I'm an athlete, and we go to…
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July 2, 2021
Innsbruck 2021 – How not to run a comp
Oh boy, where do we begin. Just a month before the debut of climbing in the Olympics, the IFSC World Cup stopped into Innsbruck for a bouldering, lead, and adaptive…
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June 30, 2021
Goodbye PRG Valley (Coatesville)
A personal history of my encounters with something unapologetically old school. "You gotta come to this comp. Well, its not a comp. Its an epic. 5 hours man. Routes, slabs,…
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March 19, 2021
37 Step Guide to Competition
So you want to compete? Well, take it from me, it's a good time. I've lost track of how many competitions I've been in over the last 17 years, but…
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March 3, 2021
JMC: Pants
"You know what Jams My Cams? Pants. Hear me out. Pants are the most underappreciated and under-served climbing clothing." I wrote that line more than a few years ago in…
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December 31, 2020
JMC: Quality Control
You know what Jams My Cams? Poor Quality. Quality matters. Where I work, our priorities are, in order: employee safety, part quality, and delivery schedule. When I climb those priorities…
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July 26, 2020
Climbers in Quarantine (Part 3): Returning to the Gym
A Report on What to Expect When You're AscendingWhen I wrote Part 2 back in May, I had thought, like most of us, that the worst of Covid-19 was behind…
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July 5, 2020
JMC: The Death of the Southern Spot
You know what Jams My Cams? Dabbing on an overzealous spotter. What makes a good spot to you? Much like shouted encouragement, or how much "penalty slack" is added to your…
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July 3, 2020
Climbers in Quarantine: Part 2
How to Safely Return to Climbing after LockdownWho's ready?Two months ago, gyms across the world shut down. Major outdoor destinations were asking for visitors and tourists to go home. Access…
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May 16, 2020
Spray in the Time of COVID19
I wish I didn't have to write this article, genuinely.I have had a drafted article about "Spray" sitting on this blog, for years. I've never posted it because everytime I…
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April 18, 2020