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JMC: The Death of the Southern Spot

You know what Jams My Cams? Dabbing on an overzealous spotter. What makes a good spot to you?  Much like shouted encouragement, or how much “penalty slack” is added to your sharp end, we all have different preferences.  And much like the other two examples, its a delicate dance where I vote the climber should have the final, respected say, but also has the duty to speak up to establish their preference.

Some people like a veritable sea of crash pads, two deep, whenever they can get it, and as many spotters as are available.  Some people don’t trust pads stacked more than one deep on account of the ankle-swallowing nature when seams align.  Some think one, maybe two pads is enough for 95% of bouldering.  Others will laugh at you for the cowardice of using more than a carpet square. And that’s just in the outdoor arena – a number of articles have been written about spotting indoors, and the vibes may surprise some.Arguments for more pads\spotters:

  • It makes me feel safer and I can focus on the moves
  • It’s motivating to have people supporting me
  • It’s not hurting anyone else
  • We carried all this foam into the woods, might as well use it
The work of sponsors and many human pack mules.
Arguments for less pads\spotters:
  • I like keeping the dab potential low
  • It crushes plantlife
  • I’m in it for a certain experience
  • Machismo\Hubris\Pride – The FA did this over a carpet square!
The author’s car

I like me a Southern Spot. A bit of a minimalist approach, where additional watchers-on mostly will the climber to the top by their seeming indifference. I know they’re there for me, but in a sub-conscious way – their existence isn’t occupying any part of the “front-of-mind” reserved for climbing. Standing out of the way isn’t laziness, its an unspoken signal to the climber that they only need a spot if they’re going to fall, and we all know you’re not gonna fall.  You’re gonna send.
The author’s personal hell. Seriously. I’m uncomfortable just looking at it.

I’m not saying those of us here at Crank are always old-school die-hards.  Just look at the sea of pads as we wandered up the iconic “Making Waves” at Rocktown.  We had 6 people, therefore we had 6 pads, and everybody in the group was going to feel better if we used 6 pads.  At the same time, the spotters are at a distance, free of dab potential, and most are out of the immediate range.  Make no mistake however – the primary spotter has the situation under control, and those on the periphery are ready to leap in ninja-like should the need arise.

And you know what I blame most of all for the death of the Southern Spot?  Not the gyms. Not the gumbies. Not the “Yer gunna die!” culture that blasts any photo or video posted with less than two pads and a spotter.

Vaping.  I blame vaping.
How the hell am I supposed to be motivated when there isn’t a lit cigarette held deftly in the outstretched hand of my spotter? You fall into a fella with a Camel twix his fingers, you got a reason to not fall again.  Do that enough and you may even find yourself guilted into buying their next pack of Pall Malls. You cartwheel into someone mid-drag on anything bigger than a Juul and reconstructive dentistry might be in order for the poor sod.
At the very least, let’s not shame anyone who falls to either side of us on the ideological spectrum, understand that less-safe isn’t un-safe, and respect reasoned decisions made by those who will have to live with their consequences.

So break out those Cordless, those Misty Mountain, those Bittersweet nylon covered napkins, stop at the gas station for a pack of Marlboro 100s, and lets have a palm-sweating good time. If you want to. Or throw down a few BD Mondos for that 8′ footer, just don’t crush any shrubs. The choice is yours.

Justin Meserve has a very fortunate history with bouldering injuries and is knocking on every piece of wood he encounters after writing this karma magnet of an article.