Thanks to a combination of shoulder surgery leaving me ill-equipped to type, building a home woodie while [sometimes] still in a sling, travelling for the holidays, and picking up the flu between Christmas and New Year’s, the Crank Chronicles has been quiet for the month of December. Never fear, the dream shines clear, and on the last day of the year, readers will be treated to all of our monthly segments in one day…dear. That’s right, every four hours there will be a new post as we have worked through it all, from outline to typos, to have them finished so that we can ring in 2016 with fresh excuses. I know hat none of you hold us accountable since we work in our spare time, but I like to hold myself up to a standard and I hate it when I can’t deliver.
So, let’s look back at November, shall we?
Hot Sends
Adam Ondra – C.R.S. (5.15b):
While still in the heat of the IFSC World Cup, Ondra found time to steal away to nab the first ascent of France’s hardest route. Equipped by visionary Seb Bouin, the route had stood unfinished for some time in Flatanger cave even though Seb is on the short list of 5.15b capable climbers. Ondra also found time to repeat Alex Megos’s newest routes, Classified (5.14d) and Modified (5.15a).
Jorg Verhoeven – Wheel of Life (V15):
This was the 10th ascent of the line, and normally that is no longer important to the greater community as it now seems to be old hat. But it has been two years since its last ascent by Daniel Woods and that is important. This 70 foot monster boulder problem that gains only 10 feet in height is one of the few that also gets a YDS rating because of its length, clocking in at 5.14d/5.15a. Funny enough, Jorg decided not confirm or deny the route grade, simply saying “8c+ feel right.”
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Dani Andrada – Chilam Balam (5.15b):
Chilam Balam is the both the route of nightmares and dreams, depending on ho hard you climb. 260 feet tall (80m), 22 bolts, 235 moves, and 25 no-hand knee bars, this route is perhaps the best route in the world. Andrada is an astonishing 40 years old compared to the young crowd that he hangs with in the climbing world and is surprisingly one of the few in that arena that has not finished Biographie (5.15a). Still, perhaps the more improessive thing about the fourth ascent is that he broke a hold around the fourth bolt which cut his forehead and streamed blood down is face but he kept climbing. It took Adam Ondra half and hour to finish, but thanks to 25 no-hand knee bars, Dani could clean up when needed which ended with him being on route for over an hour. Talk about a herculean cllimb but also an impressive belayer!
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Ueli Steck – North Face Eiger:
Ueli Steck, a climber and mountaineer that has come under fire in the past and now uses a GPS watch to support his claims, has set two records on the Eiger. In 2007, he had set the solo speed record at 3 hours, 54 minutes and then broke it in 2008 down to 2 hours, 47 minutes. Dani Arnold took it down to 2 hours, 28 minutes in 2011 but Steck never though about going back, until this year. He shave 3 minutes off of Arnold’s record and credits not himself, but how much his equipment has improved since 2008 and the impeccable conditions for the day. He then broke the team record up the Eiger with Nicolas Hojac and Kilian Jornet with a time of 3 hours, 46 minutes. Swiss machine indeed, even at 39.
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Adam Ondra – Predator (5.15a):
Finals for the IFSC World Cup happened on the 14th and 15th of the month and Adam Ondra went into the competition standing in second. He proceeded to crush the field and took gold for the event and for the series but could not wait to get back outside to sew up another 5.15a FA in the Czech Republic. He claims, however, that ‘the crux is impossible to grade’ because it simply suited his flexibility but if you are not flexible then it would be much harder. Very interesting statement and a whole lotta truth for anyone climbing at that level.
Jimmy Webb – Engine Bloc, Southern Drawl, and Kings of Contortion (V14):
Jimmy Webb is strong and anyone that has climbed in the Southeast knows just how tough climbing there can be. So, it comes with great fanfare to announce that the number of V14’s in the South has increased by 400% in the span of a month thanks to Jimmy. At the very end of October he put up Engine Bloc in Boone, NC but was not reported until November along with Witch’s Hat (V13). Then he headed further down to Chattanooga, TN for the FA of Southern Drawl as well as perhaps the toughest route on public land, Cookie Monster (5.14a), The next week, he followed it up with another Tennessee V14 calling it Kings of Contortion due to the sweet and sick inverted drop knee/knee bar combination. Paul Robinson was there to work the line and quickly snagged the second ascent and confirmed the grade.
Pirmin Bertle – Meiose (5.15b):
We have not heard from Pirmin Bertle since 2012, since his double FA day of Chromosome X and Chromosome Y, both clocking in at 5.14d. In truth they were two different approaches and exits from a long crux section of the La Tribune wall and were confirmed in 2014 by Adam Ondra. Bertle’s original vision was for one long line through the entire cru. Unfortunately, over a year ago, he was diagnosed with bone marrow edema which kept him from any kind of intense physical activity. He lost 20 pounds in the process and over the course of 15 tries in 4 years, treatments for his disease, and the birth of his son, he never gave up and is now the 8th person to red-point 5.15b. A truly inspirational story about overcoming adversity to complete your goals. Check out that mono pocket!
Alex Megos – Demencia Senil (5.15a):
After tearing apart Germany and America’s Southeast in October, Alex Megos was quiet for most of November, but just had to get something in at the last minute. Make that three somethings. In Siurana, SP on the 27th he on-sighted Victimes del Passat (5.14d) and then sent Demencia Senil the next day on his second try. After a rest day, he red-pointed Vivtimes del Futur (5.14d). He had tried the line twice after Passat but could not finish, but of course, he could not leave the area undone.
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Calls to Action
Adopt-a-Crag, Northwest Branch, MD:
November 14 – Northwest Branch needs constant TLC given how close it is to DC and the fact that it is right off the road, a good place to practice your spray paint skills, and sees massive trail use by runners. So, Mid Atlantic Climbers holds an Adopt-a-Crag event there nearly every year and it is always a big job. This year we moved rocks some big and some small, and moved one very large tree trunk to create erosion barriers and build up some of the most dangerous trail segments. There was also a contingent that removed invasive species of plants and collect trash from the park, plus the obligatory graffiti removal. Pizza party for lunch and high friction climbing in the afternoon on a day that was colder than any day in December.
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Local Events
Governor Dick (Mt Gretna) Competition:
November 21 – As with most outdoor competitions, this one was created to help support access and trail building to the scattered boulders of the Governor Dick area. In its eleventh year, the competition has grwon from just 50 competitors to nearly 300. It was so popular that even the local paper decided to awkwardly write about. Mt Gretna is great, I love it because it challenges my weakness on crimps (freaking diabase), but I elected for a longer road trip attached to a different competition. See more in the next entry.
Triple Crown Bouldering Series, Horse Pens 40, AL:
November 21 – While this may not have been a “local” event, plenty of Baltimore folks, including two intrepid Crank Climbing Team members, attended what is perhaps the best outdoor climbing competition on the east coast. With a host of the Southeast’s most prolific climbers, some of the best boulders within yawning distance from your tent, awesome barbecue, and free beer. The weather was perfect and plenty of sending was had (I finally managed to send Hammerhead, V5!). If you have never been to HP40, whether for the competition or just for fun, you absolutely need to go.
Crank Candy
REI Co-Op #OptOutside Campaign:
Some people thought that this was business suicide and others thought that it was brilliant. Having worked in the outdoor industry for the last decade and having spent plenty of time in retail, I could see the genius behind the campaign. Online sales skyrocketed for REI, and the obvious social and moral bonus for their employees, led to one of the most successful marketing gambits in modern retail history. Nearly all other retail centers fell drastically short of their goals for the holiday season despite some opening as early as 6pm on Thanksgiving Day. REI spat in the face of the new traditions and won big gaining massive sales and massive support. Maybe other sotres will folow suit and we can stop fretting over Black Friday and start focusing on what is important. Crank Climbing spent its time at Coopers Rock, WV and with family on Black Friday.
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Community Losses
Andrew Bower – Dishman Hills, WA:
Mountain guide, rafting guide, and EMT Andrew Bower was found at the bottom of a cliff on November 6th in the Dishman Hills Natural Area in Washington. His body was found by family that evening when he did not return home and did not answer his cell phone. Disturbed moss and pine needles were found at the top of the cliff and his body was found at the bottom with his pack still strapped up. Andrew had dedicated much of his time outdoors to education and bolt replacement in Colorado and Washington. His brother, Aaron, has set up a GoFUndMe account to help with funeral expenses, but any additional funds will be donated to Andrew’s favorite outdoor charities. Bower had just celebrated his 27th birthday.
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Angela Uys – Yosemite, CA:
South Africn native and University of Oregon graduate Angela Uys (pronounced ‘Ace’) was climbing the Snake Dike route on Half Dome in a party of four on Saturday, November 7th. Little details are known about what happened beyond the fact that it happened late and during the decent. Her body was found the following morning by helicopters. Angela was a well loved student and her professors continue to speak highly of her even after her graduation in 2014. She was expecting to begin medical school at the University of Berkeley. She was 26 years old.
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Coming Attractions
Yeah, I messed up by not getting this done in time, so pretty much everything has already happened. I hope you all had a good Holiday season and look what lies ahead in December’s review. Fortunately, not a lot was planned since the Mid-Atlantic expected Winter to start, but instead we got a second summer.
-Tylor Streett, is slowly recovering from a whirlwind of a month and lots of pain but can not wait for 2016 to start so that he can begin physical therapy for more pain.