Wait, before we get started, you guys remembered to not cut your hair and grow your power beard, right? Seriously, I didn’t remind you to do that? That’s, like, Training 101, come on, man! You know how martial artists never wash their belt because it holds the essence of their training for the next level, well it’s like that. For example, last year Jimmy Webb looked like he had just emerged from the woods looking like Paul Bunyan, mostly because instead of chopping trees he was taking swings at some untouched stone deep in Georgia. He then proceeded to crush the hardest boulder problems in the Southeast and in Europe for the next three months. He stopped sending after he got a shave and a haircut (big mistake, Jimmy). The secret was obviously the beard and unkempt hair. Ladies, since we can spend the winter training, not shaving leg hair is an acceptable substitute for the power beard, plus, extra friction for those sketchy top-outs when Spring rolls around and you ditch the pants for shorts.
What’s good enough for Jimmy is good enough for us. |
Nah, I’m just kidding, you dirt-bagging, knuckleheads. Clean yourself up so your buddies can get some sweet glamour shots as you strut your stuff on that new sickness.
Projecting and Maximum Power:
Still want to keep training for campus and maximum power? Have you ever tried campus board bumps and pull-throughs? These exercises are perfect for you to train lock-off ability and pushing through and past the standard lock-off and generating power from a fully extended position. If a foot board is available, the following exercises can be modified to be made easier.
Maximum Bump
For the Maximum Bump exercise, start matched on the highest rung you can reach. With one hand leading the way, bump that hand from one rung to the next. Keep bumping as high as you can go until you miss the next rung and fall. Rest for 60 seconds and repeat with the other hand leading then rest for 180 seconds after the set. I like to perform and even number of sets, up to 6 sets, so that I can alternate the starting hand and keeping the training and recovery even between each side of the body.
Bump Train
Now you should have an idea how high you can go before failing. The next exercise is the Bump Train. Start as before in the Maximum Bump, but on the bottom rung, and stop at your last successful rung, move the lower hand up one rung and then bump the top hand again. Continue alternating hands up one rung at a time until you reach the top of the board, first the engine, then the caboose. Again, repeat on the other side after a 60 second rest followed by a 180 second rest between sets. Perform an even number of sets, up to 6 sets, and alternate the starting hand.
Bump Pull-Through
Another option is the Bump Pull-Through. As with the first exercise, start as high as you can reach from the ground and bump to your last successful rung before failing as in the second exercise. Now engage to push with the bottom hand and pull with the upper hand until the bottom hand is released and you pull it up and passed the top hand to the highest rung you can reach. Repeat on the other side after a 60 second rest followed by a 180 second rest between sets. Perform an even number of sets, up to 6 sets, and alternate the starting hand.
Session
|
Sets
|
Exercise
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
6
|
Maximum Bump
|
Dynamic
|
60 sec./1 min
180 sec./3 min
|
2
|
6
|
Bump Train
|
Dynamic
|
1 min
3 min
|
3
|
6
|
Bump Pull-Through
|
Dynamic
|
1 min
3 min
|
4
|
2 of each
6 Total
|
Maximum Bump
Bump Train Bump Pull-Through |
Dynamic
|
1 min
3 min
|
Core Activation
Medicine Ball Lift and Chop
Scorpion
Hip Iron Cross
Balance
Lunge with Rotation
Lunge with Reach
Push-up with Rotation
Single-leg Touchdown
Plyometrics
Leg Swing, Front to Back
Leg Swing, Side to Side
Speed Air Squats
Band/Tube Walk
Core Workout – Climbing
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Reps
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
Body Weight
|
3
|
12
|
2/2
|
0 sec.
|
|
Balance:
|
Body Weight
|
3 |
12 |
4/2/1
|
0 sec,
|
Plyometrics:
|
Body Weight
|
3
|
12
|
Repeating
|
60 sec.
|
Core Workout – Conditioning
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Reps
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
Body Weight
|
3
|
12
|
2/2
|
0 sec.
|
|
Balance:
|
Body Weight
|
3
|
12 |
4/2/1
|
0 sec,
|
Plyometrics:
|
Body Weight
|
3
|
12
|
Repeating
|
60 sec.
|
Finally, if you would like to continue conditioning for Maximum Power, then you can follow the exercises below. I prefer medicine balls if they are available because it allows for a direct transmission of force to an object, much like an arrow from a bow. Additionally, the repetitive nature of the movement at such a high speed is a great cardiovascular workout as well. The resistance level for these exercises is based on your body weight and is detailed below in the chart. I also like to add in a back exercise for body balance sake; front, back, up, and down.
Chest
-Assume an athletic stance with feet shoulder width apart and knees slightly bent facing a wall
-Begin with the ball against your chest and elbows by your sides
-Forcefully push the ball away from you towards a wall
-Receive the ball as it bounces back and absorb the force with your arms and bending of the knees
-Repeat as quickly as possible
Soccer Throw
-Assume an athletic stance with feet shoulder width apart and knees slightly bent
-Raise the ball overhead and stretch the body to its full length up onto the toes
-Bring the ball forcefully down in a arc to land in front of your toes and bend your knees
-Be prepared to catch the ball!
-Repeat as quickly as possible
*Note: medicine balls bounce and slam calls do not. Make sure you know the difference before it tries to hit you in the face or you are waiting for it come back to hands while it sits on the ground
Shoulders
-Assume an athletic stance with feet shoulder width apart and knees slightly bent
-Begin with the ball hanging front of you and a straight back
-Raise the ball forcefully overhead by fulling extending the body from the toes and up
-Be prepared to catch the ball!
-Absorb the force of the ball back to the starting position
-Repeat as quickly as possible
*Note: this is obviously best done in an open space with a high ceiling or outside
Lunge Jumps
-Assume a lunge position to start
-Jump into the air and switch your legs
-Arms should be above your head for a full extension
-Land with your legs in the opposite position
-Repeat as quickly as possible
-Bonus: Performing both sides counts as one repetition to effectively double the number
-Double Bonus: Add the medicine ball for additional resistance
Session
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Repetitions
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
5% of BW
|
4
|
10
|
Controlled
|
180 sec.
|
2
|
5% of BW
|
5
|
10
|
Controlled
|
180 sec.
|
3
|
8% of BW
|
5
|
8
|
Controlled
|
180 sec.
|
4
|
10% of BW
|
6
|
8
|
Controlled
|
180 sec.
|
These additional power exercises will be detailed in the full print version, though many of the notes are similar with regard to body position and focus points:
Chest:
-Medicine Ball Rotation Chest Pass
-Band Chest Press
-Band Chest Fly
Back:
-Medicine Ball Wood Chop
Shoulders:
-Medicine Ball Oblique Throw
-Band Overhead Press
-Band Lateral Raise
Legs:
-Ice Skaters
-Band Speed Squat
-Band Speed Deadlift
Care
John Sherman always has victory beer in hand |
Carbohydrates = 50-65% Daily Caloric Intake
Protein = 15-25% Daily Caloric Intake
Healthy Fat = 15-25% Daily Caloric Intake
As always, these are just general suggestions and should be used as a starting point. You know what your body needs more than anyone else and any cravings you may have should be met. So, about those consideration I mentioned. If I am gearing up for a big trip with some long multi-pitches, I will lean towards more fat and carbohydrate intake just like a marathon runner to have enough stored energy to get through each day. If I am trying a delicate or powerful boulder project where every ounce of body weight matters and there is severe stress on my muscles and joints, I reduce fat and increase protein to keep me light and those connective tissues healthy. You gotta stay intact because the next session is right around the corner.