Oh boy.  The O.G., Southern Slopers. The film about Horse Pens 40 in all its glory.

A masterpiece of the VHS era, it played on loop in the Shultz’s cantina just uphill from the boulders.  It’s almost mythical, and for years I considered it the ‘Unicorn’ of my climbing film addiction collection. Finally, I (Justin) started attending the annual Triple Crown of Bouldering at the urging of Tylor, and we started showing our appreciation for the organizer’s hard work by bringing Berger Cookies down for the volunteer teams. Then on pleasant terms with Chad Wykle and Jim Horton, I sent an email to both (and Adam Henry for good measure), throwing down a bounty – find me a copy, and I’d split $$$$ between the owner and the Access Fund.

In luck, Chad got back to me right away – he had a copy.  After a short presentation on stage at the comp, I had scored big and the Access Fund did too.  Life was good.  The big question – does it hold up? Was it everything I remembered from the grainy footage on the tiny 13″ CRT screen?

It is. The film documents the early days of HP40, when there were still plums to be picked. It’s sort of the Horse Pens version of The Real Thing or Stone Love, but with a lot less non-climbing footage tacked in there.  Like those films, it’s dated VHS quality footage, but it captures the spirit of HP40; desperately mugging slopers, getting shut down frequently, and staring agape at “Litz did what?” The main film focuses on 16 problems from V2 to V10(ish), with a number of those shown being the first ascents, even including moderate classics like “Trick or Treat”.  Beyond those “feature” problems, there are another 30 boulders shown at least in part, either during the ending credits or in the frenetic montage that is the first 5 minutes.  Speaking of the ‘ish’-grades above, I have included in the list below the grade given in the film, the grade in the original Dr. Topo guidebook Adam Henry put together, and the grade in Adam’s printed guidebook.  He’d be the first to tell you that the grades don’t matter and if you’re unhappy with the guidebook go get some whiteout and write what you want, but I think the consolidation of the grades over time is interesting to observe.

It’s not the greatest thing ever produced – maybe its because I’ve digitized a nearly two decade old VHS but I’m starting to think it wasn’t the TV that was grainy.  The music is a constant electronic jam assault that personally I think it works, but I know it will leave a lot of people confused. But, if you’re someone who has spent any time in that field, its a fun look into the development era and a reminder that even the mythically strong aren’t immune to the sandstone’s humbling nature.  Just be sure that you stay until after the credits to watch our hero take a wild ride, and some campy home-video.

The Verdict: Borrow It.  I know, not what you expected after I gushed over it above.  The truth is, the South has since been discovered by the mainstream, gorgeous HD footage is out there, and I feel a very special connection with the place despite being 12 hours away – or perhaps living 12 hours away is what makes that place feel so very special.  There’s clearly some reverent hero worship in my brain around the likes of Adam Henry and James Litz (both who who hate to hear that), not to mention appreciation of folks like Payne, Roberts, Sierzant, Barr, and Shields.

Well, the other reason this isn’t a clear case of Buy It; good luck finding a copy.

The Who:
Adam Henry
Chris Sierzant
Mishka Cole
Eric Pittman
Josh Gary
Greg Kottcamp
Cooper Roberts
Lee Payne
John Barr
Jody Miall
Anne Shields
John Woodruff
Luis Rodriguez
Jason Young
James Litz
Hunter Jones
Sean Kearney
Noah Kaufman

The What: