You know what Jams My Cams? Competition climbing. At its start, it was literally called “sport climbing” by the Euros, although the English-speakers have co-oped that to being anything with bolts on it. The first major foray into it for the US was the competitions at Snowbird. Some people took to it – Lynn Hill was the first real US climbing rock-star on the competition tour circuit. Others looked at it as bringing the sport down, and against the ideals of bold adventure climbing without taking away from the rock. What has competition climbing cost us, with its commercialization, advertising, and training athletes for goofy parkour boulders or speeding up routes? Is it costing us the very soul of climbing?
Much like Arlo Guthrie, I’m not here to talk about that. I’m here to talk about the literal cost, dollars and cents, for you, the average Joe who is going to compete in the average indoor or outdoor competition. I’ve found my bank account much more empty than expected after the comp season, because the little stuff adds up. All that other philosophizing can wait for another day.
Registration Fees ($45) – Duh. This is what most people would call the cost of a comp. When I started in the mix, $30-$35 bucks could get you into most indoor weekend comps, and score you a “free” t-shirt. Inflation gets to us all however, and my local indoor comps are now asking $45. For a weekend comp, that’s getting steep.
There are outliers on both sides however. The Triple Crown of Bouldering charges $50 a comp, but with all the freebies and the caliber of the event, I think that’s still fair. Some gyms charge $30-45 for a “series” that runs over an extended period as they reset the walls. Sport Rock of VA gets a nod for having a free comp as a means of member appreciation, and only charging $10 for non-members.
Food ($15) – You wanna compete right, you gotta eat right. Clif bars, Power bars, PB&J, bananas, whatever gets you through the 3-24 hours of climbing you gotta do. And then, if you’re staying for finalsawardssocial hour, you should probably budget for dinner out as well. If you’re traveling far to the comp, add even more.
Gas ($30) – Unfortunately, I live in the middle of nowhere – the closest gym is 45 minutes. The closest gyms I like to compete in are 70-120 minutes. The Triple Crown is 9-12 hours in a car each way for each stop. Even in a commuter car getting 30+ mpg that can add up, and much worse if its far enough away to merit camping, requiring a larger vehicle for the crash pads.
Chalk ($3) – You will use up all your chalk, and if you don’t someone will accidentally kick your chalkpot over.
Raffle Tickets ($10) – Buy the raffle tickets! Seriously. You can win stuff, and more importantly you are supporting groups like the Access Fund and your local climbers coalition. I’ve seen people throw down hundred(s) of dollar on raffles and clean house when it came time to draw the numbers.
Supporting Local Business ($10) – Comps don’t happen in a vacuum. There are sponsors and there are community businesses that volunteer resources. Don’t stop by the “free coffee” tent and just filch a sticker and a cup of Joe. Buy a mug or a bag of beans. Stop by the bar that provided the beer. At the very least stop by the sponsors and tell them you appreciate the support.
Injuries ($0-$1000+) – Optional cost. Unfortunately, not the sort you choose either. Popped pulleys, torn labrum, and of course, a sea of twisted, tweaked, and broken ankles. Some of these can be cured on the cheap with RICE, others may require legitimate medical intervention.
Bribes ($XX) – Kidding. Kinda. Organizing a comp is a hard job, and many of the judges and support staff are volunteers. I’ve started making it a point to show my appreciation for the unsung heroes by, from time to time, providing these heroes with a case of beer, a couple packs of cookies, or at the very least a crisp high-five and a thank you. But only after scorecards are in.
So, there you have it. Sign up for that cheap $30 comp and you could be out two, maybe three times that much. But you know what, the majority of those additional dollars are going into your local climbing coalition and the local community at large, so sign up today! See you out there…. now where the hell is my “free” t-shirt?! I need a men’s Smedium…. And a commemorative pint glass. And a sandwich from the food truck.
