Crank Media Review: Downward Bound

Warren Harding, not just a President, but also a name carved deep into the history of Yosemite climbing.  Love him or hate him for his tactics, his first ascents earned him a place in that history.  After he and Dean Caldwell made the epic first ascent of the Wall of the Early Morning Light (WoEML), “Batso” Harding went on a slideshow tour across the country.  If you read Tommy Caldwell’s (no relation to Dean) book “The Push”, you know that the tour stopped in Tommy’s living room at one point. 
 For those of us who weren’t fortunate enough to catch the tour, Ol Warren has you covered with his book “Downward Bound: A Mad! Guide to Rock Climbing”.
   

It’s actually written as a rendition of his slideshow, complete with pictures, Harding in the 3rd person, and audience members. That’s right, your not alone, the audience is packed with a collection of highly detailed, carefully crafted, complete stereotypes and strawmen. Everyone from the ethics zealot to the blonde bimbo, Sigmund Freud to space aliens. The advantage of the omniscient third person point of view is you get to experience as much of Harding’s internal monologue as his external monologue. 

I’m not going to lie, the first 70 percent of the book reads as hokey. Really hokey. All the stories are true, but the over the top nature and charicatures feel forced, like he’s trying to live up to the wild man brand he’d built for himself. I’m sure all the stories of debauchery are true, but you’re beaten over the head with it.

The book really shines in the final act and the epilogue. His recounting of the first ascent of the WotEML brings new angles to light that are missed when viewed from the outside (looking at you, Valley Uprising). There were a lot of dynamics at play and it’s much harder to paint him as the villian – each choice was thought out. As strange as it may sound, perhaps my favorite part of the book is his ranking of dozens of his contemporaries on a sliding scale from 1 (Royal himself, pure ethical climbing) to 10 (Batso and other drunk miscreants).

 Is it a great book? No. Is it a funny book? Hell yes.

 Verdict?  Semper Farcissimus! I don’t think you should buy this book. I think in the spirit of Batso, you should trade someone who has it a 6 pack for the pleasure.