For the first time in a while, I got to visit a new gym. My cousin’s daughters, both excellent gymnasts, had found climbing, and I got an invite to come hang out, check out their home gym, and generally get to soak in the rare extended-family time.
Let me say up front – Vertical Rock is the kind of gym I like; old school charm with enough modern amenities to keep one comfortable, but not so many that it feels excessive.
Starting at the start of things, the check-in process went quickly, with friendly staff and the ability to fill out the waiver online. Things were held up slightly as we arrived just as the last of the birthday parties was finishing, and just as a large party of boys governed by not nearly enough adults checked in to climb, but not a formal party run by staff. This group occasionally felt in the way – tweens don’t have the greatest situational awareness, and I’m going to try and ignore any negative impact they had on my experience since this is endemic to every gym – I watched the front desk of a local mega-gym get overrun the other night, leaving the staff reeling, it happens.
The belay test was quick and painless, yet thorough enough that they had an adequate feel for the level of competence. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a chance to climb routes in the end, but peering up at them, I was struck by a few things. I know its hard to tell from the ground, but the hold choice and spacing made me feel like the grades were reasonably on point. Routes were marked by hold color, with a tape badge at the bottom denoting grade and setter. The gym did not shy away from hanging draws on almost all of the wallspace, with a sizable lead only area, but also tons of mixed use wallspace at all angles. What strikes one first as you enter is a large arching roof across the main floorspace, and the gym has not shied away from making full use of it – a beautiful 5.12 ran the entire length and then up the far wall – this might be the single longest pitch I’ve ever seen in an indoor gym in person, it almost makes me regret not cajoling someone into belaying me across it. I wouldn’t have stood a chance, but it would have been a good time.
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A route runs from the belayer in white nearly to the yellow holds on the face in the foreground!
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The bouldering area was decidedly smaller but had all the necessary angles, and another smaller arch. Unlike many newer commercial gyms, only a limited 8 foot swath was wasted on slab (yes, I said it, deal). Grades here were about on-point if a little sandbagged. I think I found one soft problem at the upper end of my range, but found plenty of climbs within my usual flash-ability that stymied me. I was genuinely impressed that there were holds there I did not immediately recognize, which breaks up the tedium of knowing exactly where something is good going into it. Downside is the holds largely needed a good wash, but the area looked like it was due a reset so I’m sure it’ll be good in the coming weeks.
There are a few features at Vertical Rock that might catch those who spend time in the modern mega-gym off guard, but that I don’t think are bad per-se.
- GlassyGritty Wall Texture – unlike Walltopia-brand evenly-textured, shoe-eating, smear-where-you-want surfaces, Vertical Rock has an epoxy painted finish with coarse grit interspersed. If you think you’re going to smear on this surface, you better mean it, and it gives the setters a level of control not provided by the fashionable 150 grit walls of today.
- Satellite Pads – the bouldering area had a standard base layer of padding, and then a few gymnastics style satellite pads. Many gyms have removed these as the edges have a tendency to fold ankles (I’ve done it), but I find it lets you set low starts and add more padding where you’re gonna want it. One would hope it also teaches climbers to be diligent about pad placement. One of the few negatives I can cite for the gym however, some of the satellites are worntorn and I definitely punched my foot dangerously deep into some soft spots once or twice.
- Limited Fluff – Yes, there’s a yoga room, and a training board, and series of weight benches and rowing machines. There’s a small pro-shop up front and snacks for sale. But by and large, this is a climbing gym. It doesn’t pretend to be anything more, it offers a select number of outdoor programs, and it does its job well.
The last thing I want to highlight about my experience there is the setting. As per usual, I went at the walls like a maniac, looking for soft problems and found one, but largely just tried to climb everything I could. I ran across a handful of stopper moves at what should have been manageable grades, and I wasn’t sure if it was because the set was old and chalk caked, I was being sandbagged, or most likely, I suck. Maybe its the knowing I won’t be back any time soon, but I left there with a powerful feeling of wanting to return to unfinished projects – climbs with heart-breaker cruxes that I just know I could probably pull through fresh. Its usually weeks between finding climbs that warrant a second session at my home gym, but even now, 3 weeks out, I can clearly remember the climbs there that captivated me.
If you’re in Manassas and you have the time, its well worth a couple hours of your time, especially if you have a partner with you.