How important is it to be the first to do something?  Is it still worth it to be the first if nobody else notices?

Shot in 2004, First Ascent covers just that, the first time someone has completed a line, whether its a new line up a mountain, up a crack, or the first trad lead of a previously bolted line.  While this film features climbers establishing first ascents all over the world, the centerpiece of the film in Didier Berthod’s attempts to send the previously unascended Cobra Crack in Squamish. He’s a strong man who was on the forefront of the new hard-crack era, and who understands the nature of pride as a sin.

Timmy O’niell lends his wacky manic energy to the film in multiple vinettes.  The first is a brief history of climbing in the US, the transitions between aid, trad, sport, and bouldering.  As always, there is an epic homage to Lynn Hill.

Surely you’ve all see the iconic footage of Dean Potter taking monster whippers off the Tombstone – this is the film that showcases his effort, overlaying the tense footage with Dean’s discussion on fear and motivation. From there we head to Thailand with David Lama, knocking out deep water solo first ascents on literally untouched virgin stone. Cedric Lachat and Lama trade burns on a high hard line capped by a huge dynamic move way off the deck.  Transitioning “upriver” to scary first ascents in Black Canyon, we see Topher Donahue and Jared Ogden authoring new hard free lines, but Leonard Coyne steals the show with his bold persona.

Here we shift gears to something completely different from Black Canyon, but still so very similar – miserably insecure alpine climbing in the Himilayas.  After another appearance by Timmy, we see Cedar Wright and Ivo Ninov seek first ascents in Yosemite, a site that might be picked clean until you start looking to the obscure lines otherwise overlooked by the sane.

The music is generally calm, understated, an notably quiet or absent in the right moments when you should be listening the the bleats of desperation being issued by the climbers. To his embarrassment, the voice of the narrarator (Peter Mortimer) is present during Didier’s redpoint burns on the Cobra, anywhere between whispering and shouting encouragement.  Additional points are docked when climbers are shown blow torching holds dry during the wet Squamish season. Points are added for a last minute “Cool Runnings” reference.

The Extras!  How can you forget the extras.  The footage of Matt Segal on Iron Monkey is my go-to thought when I need to turn on the try hard. Fred Rouhling makes an appearance with his wildly dynamic style, and an obligatory Ethics Rant Compilation rounds things out nicely.

VERDICT:
If you are given the chance, See It. For me, the special features were worth it alone, and I can skip the manic Timmy O’Neill segments if I’m not feeling up for it.

THE WHO:
Matt Segal, Didier Berhtod,  Chris Lindereerne, David Lama, Topher Donahue, Lisa Rands, Dean Potter, Cedar Wright, Ivo Ninov, Timmy O’Neill, Roger Briggs, Cameron Tague, Fred Rouhling, Sonny Trotter, Steph Davis, Christina Shmid, Cendric Lachat, Nina Caprez, Leonard Coyne, Jared Ogden, Heidi Wirtz, Vera Schulte-Pelkum

-Justin Meserve, has all of the First Ascent series and will gladly lend you a copy.