IT BEGINS!  Dosage 1, of 5.  Buckle up, its going to be a long ride. This is the films that really lit the fuse for Big Up if you ask me. How old is it?  The Title Card reads “(Pusher) Presents”, that’s how old. The film is a collection of now iconic moments in climbing history for me, and makes me very nostalgic.

It opens with the first ascent of the Mandala in Bishop, of which Sharma jests “If I were going to rate it, I’d probably rate it like V16.  But I’m not going to.” If there were ever any question as to where the start holds are on that climb, this footage will answer it.

Transition to Jason Kehl, well, being Jason for lack of a better word. No skullet to be seen, his crimp power is on full display on some North Carolina classics, many inside the fabled Hound Ears bouldering area. Locals will recognize a lot of the boulders shown in passing but not named (feel free to let me know which I missed below!)

Lisa Rands takes a tour of the hard lines in the American west, in typical Lisa Rands style – big moves and all the power. She takes time to talk about what its like to be one of the few women on the scene at the time, and how while she enjoys climbing with other women, and the stereotypical crimpybalancy “girl climbs” are her anti-style.

Over in Germany, Klem Loskot shows off his newest developed area, Blue Ice, with a crew of strong friends. When Klem is in the house, you can count on two things – meandering philosophical chat, and what I can only describe as the Super Saiyan effect. He’s blonde, he shouts aggressively, and he accomplishes his boulders with overwhelming muscular force.

An odd turn not seen in modern films, the action transitions to an indoor comp, watching names like Sharma, Roth, Graham, and Carrion square off in what bouldering gyms used to be: dimly lit spaces with small holds marked with tape and lung killing chopped rubber for padding.

The longest story arc is Chris Sharma’s epic battle for the first ascent of Biographie (aka Realization), heralded at the time as the first 5.15a. This was the first route that ever really tested the man, shutting him down for multiple trips to Spain, and is really the ascent that cemented his name in the climbing history books (as if Necessary Evil wasn’t enough). What I find most interesting watching now is how little he’s changed over the years in tone when discussing hard projects. Even now he has the same stoke he had as a teen when he finally finds a worthy adversary of a route.

Summary finished, onto the “intangibles”. Its a classic film.  The music is period-correct, its there when its needed, and more importantly, absent when it should be.  Shots are well thought out and in the right place to capture the action. Much of the actual content has historical significance, more than the production company could have known at the time. The film checks in at a palatable 80 minutes, not overstaying its welcome.

Viewed against the lens of modern 4K epics with drone shots, overarching singular storylines, and symphony scores, Dosage Vol.1 might seem coarse, but I will argue that it was an important step in the history of American climbing filmography.

Verdict: Borrow It. I know, I know, I wax on and on about how great the films of this era are. They’re great for the hardcore film collector, the history buff, and folks who have crushes on the Big Up regulars. It’s a great film for a “Climbers Movie Night”, but might not be something your non-climber friends would want to sit through.

Buy It Here

The Who:
Chris Sharma, Jason Kehl, Dean Melton, Ivan Greene, Dave Graham, Klem Loskot, Lisa Rands, Jared Roth, Obe Carrion

The WhatWhere:
Bishop, CA
Mandala (FA)

Buttermilks, CA
Soulslinger

The Happys, CA
Redrum
Morning Dove White

Boone, NC
Left El Pepin

Fucyo (Low-ish Start)

Mr. Thick (?)
Down to the Wire (FA)

Rock Creek
A boy named Sue

Ceuse, France
BiographieRealization (FA)

Ibex, UT
Blue Flowers
Meat and Potatoes