Hot Sends
Chris Sharma: El Bon Combat, 5.15b/c
Sharma has returned and in spectacular fashion. El Bon Combat is Sharma’s most difficult on-sight to date and ranks as one of the hardest lines in the world. He described it as straight up climbing with every move at your limit. Conditions had to be perfect and every move had to be dialed down hard and after 10 months of rehearsal, all the pieces came together. This low percentage style is similar to many other lines in the surrounding areas near Barcelona, Spain and Sharma light-heartedly suggested that more are to come.
Nalle Hukkataival: L’alchemiste, V12/?
L’alchemiste in Fountainebleau, France has a storied history and Nalle has written the latest chapter. First climbed in 1996 by French bouldering pioneer Marc LeMenestrel, it was originally graded at V12/13. Shortly after the first ascent, the first two holds were hammered off undar mysterious circumstances and the line lay unrepeated for nearly two decades. Despite some top names in bouldering throwing their hat in the ring to unlock the new sequence, it spit off every contender. Last year, Nalle put in the work and sought to use a seemingly impossible to grasp never before used hold. Having completed every move in isolation in 2014, he returned for the send in early March 2015. Still ungraded, the community at large should thank Nalle Hukkataival for returning an iconic line to the world. The big question remains, is this a first ascent or a repeat with a sever upgrade?
Marc Anderson: Siberian Express, 5.14c
Fresh off his send of Double Stout (5.14a), Anderson set his sights on a long-standing project in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. Cleaned and bolted by Scott Hahn in 2008, the route is a direct start up the dihedral to The Guantlet (5.12+). Marc says this is by far the hardest route he has ever completed, thus he granted it the grade of 5.14c, though it is likely the most difficult completed line in the park and will be awaiting a repeat. Anderson has also stated that there are plenty more projects in the canyon that are just itching for a first ascent. Way to go, Marc!
Ashima Shiraishi: Open Your Mind Direct, 9a/5.14d and Ciudad de Dios, 5.14d/5.15a
A major breakthrough for women on March 17 and March 23 as American wunderkind Ashima Shiraishi was thought to be the first women to cross the 5.15 barrier. She spent four (4) days working Open Your Mind Direct in Santa Linya, Spain. The grade is up for debate as this is the first ascent since a key hold broke in the crux sequence, but locals say other holds have broken making some sections easier. After another three days of effort she sent her second project, Ciudad de Dios, a confirmed 5.14d/15a, so that’s another major accomplishment for any climber. She is the first female to tick two (2) 5.14d’s or higher in a week. Ashima live tweeted her efforts and the world sent her our support.
Jonathan Siegrist: La Rambla, 5.15a
After sending Biographie/Realization last year Jonathan Siegrist retreated to train all winter for another European trip this spring. After twelve (12) days of effort on the iconic king line, Siegrist clipped the chains in Siurana, Spain for his second 5.15a. At 27 years old, this should give some hope to all of us in our 20’s to be able to send hard with out being a teenage superstar like Ondra or Honnold. I think we can expect some more impressive ascents from his trip as he still has two months left to make us jealous.
On another note, I’m super seriously you guys; GET TO CATALUNYA, SPAIN!!! The climbing is obviously world class with something for everyone.
SCS Open Nationals:
Six weeks after ABS Nationals and all of the controversy surrounding the new scoring system, SCS Open Nationals left the ground. The most anticipated male competitor, Kai Lightner, took first place in his Open category debut. However, the big hit of the night was a relative unknown, male competitor Jesse Grupper form PRG. He is, however, well known to us here in the Mid-Atlantic and we were all too happy to see him knocking out some other big names to place second. Alex Puccio, of ABS Nationals fame, managed a 4th place finish with her teammate Margo Hayes in 2nd and two member of Team Texas, Delaney Miller and Claire Buhrfeind, in 1st and 3rd respectively. Video of the entire event can be seen at Louder Than 11 via the link below.
Call to Action
Save the Confluence: Grand Canyon
Alright everyone, this is an effort for conservation beyond just climbers, but for all outdoor folks. We shared the article from Semi-Rad about how capitalism is infringing on conservationism and also the very excellent satire piece from Adventure Journal about where the effort to stop serving up usually hard to reach spots on conveyor belt with a hot dog and cigarette (or helicopters to Everest Camp 2) This gondola project from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon to the Confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado Rivers in the basin is a conservation nightmare on the natural splendor of the canyon. The rock is easily eroded and destroyed, the level of potential trash is unthinkable, and the impact on this area would be astronomical. Also, it’s on sacred Navajo land. There is a lot to say about this entire issue, but it is an important battle ground for the present adn will set the tone for the future. Click the link, get educated, and join the fight.
Read More and Sign the Petition
Local Events
PRG Burn Series Finale: Friction Burn
The Philadelphia Rock Gym Burn Series wrapped up the Burn Series at Valley Township with the fourth installment, the Friction Burn. For the day, Solomon Barth and Zoe Steinberg took first, as usual, and Crank Climbing team member Justin Meserve placed 10th in Open. For the series, you had to compete in at least two of the four events to place. The podium looked like this: Women – Zoe Steinberg (1), Gabrielle Peralta (2), Leilani Peralta (3), and Men – Solomon Barth (1), Nic Picarella (2), Jesse Grupper (3). Justin ended 9th in Open for the series. Way to go everyone and let’s get psyched for next year!
Results
American Alpine Club Baltimore Chapter: Happy Hour
The American Alpine Club has a new chapter and it is based right here in Baltimore! Led by Crank Climbing fan Zach Buecher, he put together a great meet-and-greet event at Heavy Seas Alehouse to bring us all together. Great beer, good food, and superb conversation was had by all as we batted around ideas to make the Baltimore/DC corridor the place to in 2015 and the future. We look forward to many more events with the AAC!
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AAC
Crank Candy
Metolius has completely redesigned their Master Cams for 2015. Shaving off 20% of the original weight, slimming down the trigger and stem, and making the dynema sling replaceable, this new design is off the charts with cool. Check out Weigh My Rack’s video outlining the features of the new Master Cam.
Community Losses
Todd Serious:
It is with sadness that we must report the loss of long time climber Todd Serious, a.k.a. Todd Jenkins, on March 7 in an accident in Black Velvet Canyon, part of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, NV. Todd was on the trip with his brother when tragedy struck and he fell from an unknown height. He was the lead singer of the modern punk band The Rebel Spell, based out our Vancouver, BC. The band had been together since 2002 and, led by Todd, was an avid supporter of social change, particularly animal rights, through their lyrics and supported causes. As a singer, activist, friend, brother, and son, he will be missed. Todd was 41.
Scott Sederstrom:
Another climber has been taken from us, this time through equipment failure. Sederstrom was in Owen’s River Gorge, CA on Friday, March 13 doing a sport solo (bolt to bolt) of Life in Electric Larvae Land (5.10b) when a 5/16 button head bolt failed. SCott was found the next morning by a friend fiance had reported that he did not return home the night before. A stick clip with an 8 foot loop of slack attached to a quickdraw was in his hand running through a Gri-gri on his harness. A long debate thread started on 8a.nu about the equipment failure separate from the condolences thread. Scott was a valued member of the community, as the original thread shows, with climbers spending Friday night praying it was not Sederstrom when they heard the name “Scott” being thrown around. Scott was 44.
Coming Attractions
Cooper’s Rock Gate Opening Party: April 10-12
Registration for the event may have closed, but we will always welcome anyone that wants to attend. E-mail us at [email protected] to share a ride.
What did we miss? Let us know in the comments!
-Tylor Streett