Hot Sends
ABS 16 Open Finals:
We got so wrapped up in the controversy of the new scoring system that we forgot to watch the show. The controversy part was covered multiple times over the following week and with rebuttals throughout the month. To be fair, we struck first on Sunday morning as everyone was scratching their heads and Matt Wilder was second on Tuesday with a wonder follow up article. Rock and Ice Magazine’s TNB segment followed with their take after Youth Nationals and Climbing Business Journal provided a retort the following Monday. But what was the show? An amazing display of strength and stamina from the best boulderers that the United States (and Iran) has to offer. Were we just mad that America’s golden bouldering son was beaten by a foreign national? We didn’t get all bent out of shape when our golden daughter won so I ask the big question of ‘who cares who won or how’? The show was impressive and regardless of practically having to watch with a pad of paper and a calculator, I still enjoyed the show. Look below and see how excited Angie Payne and Alex Johnson are to be on the podium and how bummed Mr. Woods is to be in second. The new scoring system got more press than the fact that two paraclimbers, Ronnie Dickson and Corey Ramos, participated in Nationals for the time EVER. I watched the replay of Ronnie’s bathang on Qualifier #3 more times than any other clip. The scoring system will always be a tricky situation, but can’t we just all enjoy a good performance?
Congratualtions to Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods for being the top American boulderers 9 years in a row, and a super big congratulations to Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi for winning Men’s Open!
ABS 16 Youth Finals:
Continuing the tradition of confusing everyone with competition standards from the previous week, Youth Final took place on the second weekend of the month. Louder Than 11 did anouther outstanding job of broadcasting the even more extensive event that is Youth competition. With five (5) age brackets to get through three (3) rounds of competition coupled with the tally of team scores and individual scores it is exhausting. Of 74 teams competing, local Team Earth Treks of Baltimore/Rockville/Golden, CO placed 15th and Philadelphia Rock Gym (Team PRG) placed 3rd, including a podium finish for crusher Zoe Steinberg. Way to go Mid-Atlantic region!
Griffin Whiteside: The Big Island, V15
The grade of V15 is nothing new in today’s elite bouldering world. Climbing media has been reporting on the grade for the last 15 years and yet you could count the number of climbers consistently at that level on two hands. Well take off you shoes and socks because Baltimore local Griffin Whiteside has joined those lofty ranks with his send of The Big Island in Fontainebleau, FR. Having watched Griffin grow up in the gym and then start making a name for himself with some stellar repeats of V14’s in the States, it is always a pleasure to see a familiar face take it to the limit.
Call to Action
Joe’s Valley, Utah:
An aggressive campaign led by the Salt Lake Climber Alliance and the Access Fund to work hand in hand with the Bureau of Land Management and the US Forest Service to work out more effective stewardship of this growing bouldering site. Letters poured in for a week with support and for that, climbers everywhere thank you.
Flag Rock, VA:
Moving a little closer to home; talks have started between the City of Norton, VA and the Southwest Virginia Climbing Coalition to open Flag Rock Recreation Area to climbing. It is a long process but one that even in the early stages looks positive.
Local Events
PRG Heart Burn:
Held within the grip of the worst snowstorm to grace our region in 2015 (so far), intrepid climbers set out to Philly for the third installment of the PRG Burn Series. One thing this team will say is that PRG East Falls is set up to hold a devastating competition. Being a spectator is difficult, but the endless features that one never though could be combined in gym are surely a thing to be marveled. Justin may have placed 13th in Open , but the snow had him arriving with only an hour to climb, so all in all, not too shabby. Justin says: Hey, I still got a t-shirt and a beer, so its not all bad.
Climbnasium Frostbite:
Anyone that has climbed in Climbnasium, or in Pennsylvania for that matter, you know that they grade hard. I love this competition because it is a great ego check to run on myself every year in a great gym with a fantastic crew. Built in an old barn with holds dating back to the possible dawn of time, climbing here is an act of humility. The holds are polished, the screw-on foot chips are microscopic, and despite not having heat in winter you will sweat. I love this event! If you ever want to test you mental and emotional mettle, bring yourself to next’s year’s Frostbite.
Results!
ET 16-Bit Comp:
Held on the same day as Frostbite, we had to split forces to represent at both events. Justin Meserve showed up to throw down with best in the area and party hard in the evening. The best part of the event, besides the 16-bit video game concept, was that it helped to benefit the re-bolting effort of Safe Harbor, PA. A special thanks to the Mid Atlantic Climbers table for helping to promote our region’s outdoor hot spots.
Crank Candy
While there is a lot stuff to be had out there (and we can’t wait for the gear review issues to come out for 2015) there is something worth saving just for posterity. The Dawn Wall Special Issue of Rock and Ice. I picked up my copy and put it next to my Baltimore Sun copies of the Ravens Super Bowl wins in 2000 and 2013 because it is that iconic.
Community Losses
No losses of life were reported in February, and for that I believe we are all grateful. However, there was one major loss to the community with fire that took away the gym in New Paltz, NY. At 3am on February 7th, a supposed electrical fire tore through the building and took everything (no connection with ABS Nationals controversy has been cited). The non-profit endeavor vows to return and is asking for help via donations.
Coming Attractions
PRG Burn Series:
The finale of the Burn Series wraps up in Valley Township with the Friction Burn on March 14th.
Register Here
SCS Open Nationals:
March 27th and 28th and will again be live streamed by Louder than 11.
Coopers Rock Gate Opening Party:
Crank Climbing will be hosting an event from April 10th-12th at Coopers Rock. It will consist of not only a ton of climbing but also mentorship lessons on how you can get out of the gym on the rock.
What did we miss? Let us know in the comments!
-Tylor Streett, He keeps saying on Facebook that Spring is right around the corner and then it snows in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Somebody please tell him to stop so we can go outside.
