A Look Back: January

One of our segments, “A Look Back,” will be a reflection and review of the previous month.  Read about extraordinary accomplishments in Hot Sends; community victories in Call to Action; what went down at a crag or gym near you with Local Events; new gear, films, locales, or anything else with Crank Candy; reporting and condolences for those that were taken from us in Community Losses; and finally, what to look forward to next month with Coming Attractions.

Hot Sends:
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgensen: Dawn Wall, 5.14
Even if you happened to be living as hermit under a rock, it was difficult to escape the media onslaught of this ascent.  For all the incorrect media phrasing that surrounded what was happening, climbers were excited to be able to share in this historic event with their non-climbing friends and family.  Caldwell and Jorgensen set the bar pretty high for 2015 with the first ever free ascent of the iconic Dawn Wall, but there was something else that made it even more special.  They brought everyone along for the ride via a variety of social media outlets.  Daily updates, real time postings of photos and thoughts, along with a camera crew recording the event and posting it all over the internet had the community at large feeling like we were part of the effort.  Thanks to social media, this is the direction monumental ascents will be heard about, not weeks afterward.
Daniel Woods: The Process, V16
A few days after Tommy and Kevin topped out, Daniel Woods sent another United State mega-project, a long sought after line on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks.  Set to the right of Lucid Dreaming (V15)and the famous Evilution (V11), it is the natural extension of Social Distortion (V13).  An incredible feat to be sure and  great way for the 2015 bouldering season to begin.

Francesca Metcalf: The Chattanoogan (V12)
While it may not have been a true onsight, having already completed the V7 problem that makes up the second half (Midway), it was a fantastic accomplishment for a 21-year old female in the Southeast.  What started out as an unassuming fun day with friends turned into an impressive display of strength and stamina that someone thankfully caught on video and posted to the internet.  Congratulations to Francesca for showing that women can pull just as hard as men!
Will Gadd: Niagra Falls WI6+
Not to be out done, on the last weekend of the month, Will Gadd finally put the pieces together to pull off an incredible ascent of Niagra Falls.  With conditions for ice climbing so circumstantial, the need for so many kinds of approval in a park on national borders, and the sheer force of Niagra behind and in front of the ice, the stars finally aligned for Gadd to send.  Seriously, what is February going to hold!?!
Call to Action
When it was announced that the state of Pennsylvania planned on closing its state game lands for hunting seasons, the Access Fund put out a notice for a response.  Awareness of the issue of potential spring and fall closing of the some of the most popular areas like Haycock Mountain spread like wildfire across the multiple affected communities including hikers, mountain bikers, birders, and climbers.  Within two days of the notice over 40,000 online responses had the proposed ban pulled and access was kept open.
There are still some important pieces to work out, but what is certain is that all game lands users, including climbers, need to be both respectful and safe during hunting seasons.  Check the season dates before you head out to the boulders.  Where appropriate bright colored clothing to be recognized.  Carpool to save space at areas with limited parking.  Leave the pets at home, even if areas allow Fido to come along, no one wants an accident.  Keep your voices down and practice Leave No Trace principles to save access for the future.  Thank you to everyone that took the time to reach out.
Local Events
PRG Burn Series: Winter Burn
A great comp at the fantastic PRG Valley Township.  The field was stacked with so of the strongest young men and women in the Mid-Atlantic including Nick Picarella, Jesse Grupper, adn the Peralta twins.  In the end, PRG locals Solomon Barth and Zoe Steinberg took first and place in Men’s and Women’s.  Crank Climbing’s Justin Meserve ended up 13th in Open, nestled between Earth Treks’ John Isola and Eric Jerome.  A great turn out for the first local comp of 2015.


Crank Candy
A new company called Intranets has partnered with Sterling Ropes and is helping to retire old ropes.  They make sweet nets to rig up a comfy hammock, raise your tent, or just hang with friends.  Check the out HERE!

Community Losses
This is a section that we hate to report on, but it is, unfortunately, a part of the environment that we have to deal with.  Two losses to report for January.

Cody Byers:
On January 25, while rappelling down Royal Arches in Yosemite Valley, CA, Cody Byers fell from the end of his rope a reported 400 to 500 feet.  When his partner reached him, Byers was already gone.  Byers had recently quit his job so that he could spend more time climbing across the country.  His parents and friends were supportive of the decision and did what they could to allow him to pursue his dreams.  Partners noted that Cody was always safe, always checking knots and above all, was the life of the wall.  His accident was horrible, but there is always a lesson with every loss adn his mother stated that she takes solace in the fact he died doing what he loved.  Cody was 25.

Read More

Mark Miller:

Mark Miller was lost on January 30 leading a group up the four-pitch First Gully (WI 3) in Eureka Canyon, Silverton, Colorado when a large bulge he was on cut loose 800 feet up.  The party made it out safely, but Mark was tragically lost in the fall.  While not known personally to Crank Climbing, some of our friends knew Mark and our thoughts and prayers go out to the family.  When you hurt, the whole community hurts and grieves with you.  Mark was 50.
Coming Attractions
ABS Nationals
US Open Nationals on February 6th and 7th
US Youth Nationals in February, 13th, 14th, and 15th
They will be streamed by Louder than 11, so tune in and watch
PRG Burn Series
The third stop in an great gym series at the swinging new Philadelphia Rock Gym in East Falls, Philadelphia, PA is the Heart Burn.  Last year, Crank Climbing Team attended the inaugural event and it was absolutely killer.  The gym is built for bouldering, so dig yourself out of the house and come along!  Date: 02/21/2015.
Frostbite Competition
Climbnasium in Mechanicsburg, PA holds a super fun, super cold gym comp every year.  Built in an old barn, there is no heat but that doesn’t stop committed locals from pulling plastic when snow covers the ground.  The Crank Climbing Team will be there in force so ride up with us and join the party.  Date: 02/28/2015.
What did we miss?  Let us know in the comments!

-Tylor Streett and Justin Meserve