Offwidth, that unholy crack size too big for your fist, and too small to get your butt in. You gotta be a certain kind of special to seek out wide…
Myopia. A legitimate medical condition, otherwise known as near-sightedness. Having myopia can be fixed with glasses, contacts, or surgery. To have your decisions or opinions called "myopic" is similar -…
Some climbing films are just straight climbing porn, hard sends with no plot. Others are about a concept, or a particular place, or a particular person. Redemption: The James Pearson…
If you're not up on the climbing blogosphere, you might have missed this thoughtful piece over at Moja Climbing; Dude Grades: A Look at Sexism in Climbing Grades. Now, many longterm…
I like rare(r) DVDs. I like Dr. Topo. I love HP40. And, I have an undeniable climber-crush on Jason Kehl and Steven Jeffrey. I spent years looking for a copy of…
Getting hurt. I can't say it Jams my Cams, because its a part of the sport I have come to expect. Flappers, twisted ankles, ticks, sandpapered nipples from sliding out…
You know what Jams My Cams? Foreshadowing. Like re-reading a well written book with a twist, going back over events and statements made in the past can take on new…
John Bachar. Man? Myth? Nay. Legend.Honest to god, I watched 'Bachar', an excellent biographical film about one of the US's most famous free-soloists, a few weeks ago not knowing that…
Hot SendsMatty Hong – La Rambla(5.15a):Margo Hayes sent La Ramblaat the end of February and on the first days of March, her partner Matty Hong was right behind with his…
For the last twenty weeks we have developed technique (Stage 1), endurance (Stage 2), strength endurance (Stage 3), maximum strength (Stage 4), and power (Stage 5). Now it's time to…