Hot Sends
Remember back in January’s review when I said that I could not wait to see what happend in the rest of the year? Well April outdid itself with amazing ascents and some impressive single days. This was almost too much to cover.
Julian Ramon: Two 5.15a’s in one week
It took Spanish hardman six tries over two days to get the second ascent of Following the Leader (5.15a) at Cuenca, SP. Later that same week he bagged the third ascent of Chris Sharma’s Pachamana (5.15a) in Oliana, SP reporting that it was slightly harder than the previous line. He also sent two 5.14d’s in the same week, one at each location. Julian’s first 5.15 was in 2003 and he has been at the top of the Spanish climbing game for years, take that you young whipper-snappers!
Niccolo Ceria: The Big Island (V15) and Jour de Chasse (V15)
After Baltimore local Griffin Whiteside’s ascent of The Big Island (V15), it fell back on the radar as the V15 testpiece in Fontainebleau. Niccolo Ceria put his hat in the ring with hsi own ascent and quickly followed it up with another, Jour de Chasse. Over the next few weeks he worked several other proud lines for a total of 40 problems ranging from V9 to V15. Now that’s one hell of trip!
Sonnie Trotter: Estado Critico (5.14d)
Best known for his bold and typically “X” rated trad leads, Sonnie next big send was a 45m endurance fest in Suirana, SP. It may not have been the hardest ascent in April, but it was a nice change of pace for Trotter and certainly made for a good headline
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Matt Segal: Carbondale Short Bus (5.14a)
Offically claiming the second ascent, Matt Segal left it all on the line with this proud send in Indian Creek, UT. Protected by on three 000 cams, this extra thin finger crack is a monster. To make it even more impressive, the first free ascensionist, Hayden Kennedy, is 6’2″ and needed every bit of that reach for the crux moves. Segal is 5’7″. Talk about thinking tall.
Kai Lightner: Era Vella (5.14d)
Kai is not just a competition wunderkind, he also has some pretty decent outdoor chops as well. He broke into the 5.14 realm just two years ago and now he has sent his first 5.14d in Margalef, SP. This trip was his reward for all of his work during competition season. Way to start the spring Kai!
Jakob Schubert: Bulegeisen Sit (V15)
Jakob snagged a V14 and quickly got his first ever V15 on the same day on Bulegeisen and Bulegeisen Sit. Nalle Hukkataival claimed the first ascent in 2013 but declined to grade it saying only that it was one of the hardest lines he had ever done. Schubert did the V14 stand start and then, after some significant effort, finished the V15 sit start variation.
Alex Puccio, V10, V11, & V12 in one day
Alex Puccio, after some much needed rest following her ABS win earlier this year probably had the best Saturday ever. Out at Rocky Mountain National Park, she sent Mandix (V10), Veritas (V11), and the extension Low Left Veritas (V12). You read that right, three double-digit problems in one day. I think we all wish we could have a day like this.
Alex Megos: Five 8b+ and up
It was a great month for people named Alex. In the same week as Alex Puccio’s stellar day, Alex Megos was on a trip to Australia and sent five routes 8b+ and up. He got the first repeats of Sneaky Old Fox (34, 8c+, 5.14c), Fantastic Mr. Fox (33, 8c, 5.14b), and Over Monkey (33, 8c, 5.14b), and also got local standards Der Keitzling Hund (33, 8c, 5.14b), and Rhythm and Stealth (32, 8b+, 5.14a). Impressive performance and finally some news coming from down under rather than Spain.
Angie Scarth-Johnson: Tijuana (5.14b)
Normally, a 5.14b is not a big deal in the world of professional climbing. It starts to become a bigger deal for women as the number that climb at that level is so low. So why is Angie’s ascent so important? Because she is only 10 years old! This Australian native took a trip to, where else, Rodellar, Spain and crushed like the little monster she is making her the youngest climber EVER to climb the grade, a year younger than Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi. What more can we expect from this little firecracker? The sky is the limit.
Dani Arnold: Eiger Speed Record
The record up the Eiger from the starting ledge to the summit via the Heckmair route was broken and has been held by Ueli Steck since 2008 with a time of 2:47:33. On April 21, Swiss speed alpinist Dani Arnold broke the record with a new time of 2:28.
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Calls to Action
Indian Creek: Pistol Whipped Trail
After three years of planning and collaborating, a formal and fantastic trail has been established to the base of the Pistol Whipped Wall. This former “slog” through crumbling and eroding sandstone was arduous and at time dangerous. Led by Mark Hesse and the Rocky Mountain Field Institute (RMFI), they worked with landowners to established this 1,900 foot trail. A monumental effort to move rock to make the trek both safer and easier, enable proper drainage to reduce erosion, and put up signage to educate future and current climbers about the the area and the project. Mark Hesse, unfortunately, was not among the celebrations having passed away the year before. His memory and unwavering optimism should never be forgotten every time you walk the Pistol Whipped Trail.
Geyikbayiri Saved:
Taking us to the other side of the world, a stellar location in Turkey had been under siege from mining companies for years and local climbers finally stood triumphant. Led by local climber Zuleyha Geels Gorken, the effort brought together not only climbers, but hikers, mountain bikers, and even goat herders together to save a large expanse of rock and property, including 1,000+ sport routes. When communities come together, they can accomplish amazing things, even when facing daunting foes.
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Local Events
Coopers Rock Gate Opening Party
We had our first event as an organization, or at least tried to. Registration was nearly non-existent, but we still headed out to Coopers for the weekend after Easter. We found plenty of folks who were experiencing their first outdoor adventure and we were more than happy to educate and guide. We hope to start offering more events in Fall and Spring, the only cost is for food, camping, and gas so it is no more expensive than if you did it yourself, only with us, you start with +1 friend!
Crank Candy
Highball net bouldering in Germany. This is just plain cool. Highballs are fun but difficult to keep safe and the liability for gyms will always been under scrutiny. Now, in exchange for pads, A gym in Germany is trying a far more effective way to absorb the massive force of a big fall is with a net. To add the vertigo inducing height, the wall has to be even higher than normal so the net has enough room to be suspended and still give way to safely handle a fall. This is awesome and I hope it catches on.
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Community Loses
Andy Tyson:
On April 11, Andrew Tyson, along with three others, died in a plane crash with two of his employees and the pilot. Andy was the leader of a renewable energy company and a long time climber and guide. He has two publishing credits to his name, in association with his wife Molly Loomis. The climbing community not only lost a dedicated and passionate educator, the world lost a brilliant and creative innovator. He was 46.
Coming Attractions
Since we are late, these attractions have already happened. They will be detailed in our next Look Back for May.
-Tylor Streett
