Wow, 2015 was a wild year with crazy ascents, each trying to top each other. Spectacular events and amazing response form the community to protect our natural areas. Serious losses both as major cover stories and some only in local papers. Here we will recount what we thought were the most prominent pieces in each of the categories and included an article from other news outlets where appropriate to further the conversation. We are looking forward to the news and advancements in 2016!
Hot Sends
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson – The Dawn Wall (5.14d):
Seriously, was there any doubt? Even though this was the first big send of 2015, it was still the most impressive and iconic. After looking through our entire history of “Hot Sends,” there was nothing that took the community, let alone the entire world, the way this project took us by storm. It received international media attention the same way Warren Harding’s initial onslaught did in 1970, but this time with full support and no need for park rangers to try an talk them off the mountain. This climb proved that even unthinkable projects can go down and opened the flood gates in all of our minds of possibilities for the sport and for our own goals. Awesome job guys, truly inspirational!
Special Mention – Jafari Mahmodabadi, Open Nationals:
An Iranian national visiting and training at the Earth Treks Climbing Centers in Golden, CO won the US Open Nationals Competition. It was impressive and we were all astounded when he unseated reigning champion Daniel Woods. Was it because of the new scoring system that no one understood? Maybe, but he is also crazy strong and it got the competitive world talking.
Rock and Ice Magazine Counts Down the Top 7 Climbing Achievements of 2015
Calls to Action
Donner Summit Saved!:
December 11 – A lot can be said for our community when we really come together for a cause and I don’t think any action spoke more highly than the official purchase of the land surrounding Donner Summit in California. With a donation program that started in June of 2015 and reached its goal of $300,000 in less than six months, that is a fantastic achievement for our self-imposed poverty as climbers. We give when and where it is needed; 229 separate areas have been saved, purchased, or renewed in this year alone, but Donner Summit was by far the highest single amount of money put down for a relatively small area of land. However, packed into this small area is a wealth of climbing that can now be enjoyed and looked after for years to come with its all out purchase. With this kind of activism, we can keep all of our treasured areas safe as our community continues to grow.
Special Mention – AAC Baltimore Chapter:
March 24 – The American Alpine Club (AAC) has had a DC chapter for many years, but it served a very local population. Crank Climbing fan and friend Zach Buecker started a Baltimore chapter in Spring of 2015 and kicked it off with a Happy Hour at Heavy Seas Alehouse. They will be helping with the needs of Central Maryland and the chapter’s enrollment has flourished.
Access Fund’s Top 10 Climbing Access Victories of 2015
Local Events
Mid Atlantic Climbers – Rockfest 2015:
August 29-30 – Originally scheduled for June, the worst storm of the year pushed it back to August but there was still a great turn out. So many projects were completed, and I am not just talking about the rock climbing. Graffiti was removed, trails and bridges were built, big rocks were moved, and a shelter received a fresh stain coat. Food was provided by Pies and Pints and Solid – Rock Climbers for Christ, and beer was donated by Mountain State Brewing. Trivia and feats of strength lead the night all hosted by local celebrity Don Wahl (get it?). This is perhaps the best event in that it is both extremely fun and entertaining while giving the most back to the community. If you take part in one event in 2016, make it this one.
Special Mention – Triple Crown Bouldering Series:
Yes, this is technically not a “Local Event,” but Crank Climbing has been a supporter and participant for the last three years. The importance of this triple event series is not just the great climbing ro schwag, but the fact that the profits contribute to land protection, purchase, and contract renewal for areas in the Southeast. Next year, we hope that more people from the mid-Atlantic will join us, we have plenty of car space!
Crank Candy
REI #Optoutside Initiative:
Did you really need to ask? There is a lot of cool stuff out there and gear has always made me happy, why do you think I collect crash pads or marvel at the discontinued equipment on the wall of The Gendarme? But truthfully, this trumps any gear that has been or could have been created because it was something that we all got to enjoy, or at least something that we were supposed to enjoy. The consumer culture that has been creeping and clawing at our values for years finally had a well respected and powerful enemy. REI took on the new traditions and turned it upside down teaching us that the real value of the holidays is not shopping, but getting outside and enjoying what the world and our families has to offer. No other campaign or product has done that in decades and it was the most refreshing thing to come out of 2015.
Special Mention – Crank Climbing Crash Pad Rental Collection:
This passed year, Crank Climbing saved 9 pads of various makes and models, 8 of which have been discontinued, from going in the trash. Some had to be restored but all are still in good condition for use. Don’t throw out your pads! Chances are someone can use them (plus, it’s not great for our landfills).
Community Losses
Doug Tompkins:
December 8 – The founder of The North Face and Patagonia was lost in a non-climbing related accident, but what he has done over the course of 50+ years for conservation and the protection of natural lands is more than literally any single person in the world. After a trip to the Patagonia region of Argentina, where he put a first ascent, and was so inspired that he decided to protect the area that his business ventures helped to fund his efforts. He founded seven other non-profit organizations, locally and abroad, to work together and separately to help with this goal. He purchased two MILLION acres of land in Patagonia to set aside for protection and spent much of his free time down there with his wife Kris. He perished in a coastal kayak incident yet his tandem kayak partner survived thanks in part to Doug’s efforts to save both of them. They don’t make them like Doug anymore, and his legacy will live on far longer than his companies and personal wealth, though the trust funds he set up will still be protecting areas even after we are all gone. A truly inspirational man for how to spend our time an energy in this world.
Special Mention – Dean Potter:
May 16 – As I said, this was a tough choice for this category because Dean gave a lot to push the sport forward, but ultimately, he did his “art” for selfish reasons. Even though he was inspirational, he was a driving force that ultimately hurt access in many areas and that hurts all of us. However, he was the face of a dying culture in climbing and that deserves some acknowledgement.
Rock and Ice Magazine Lists the Climbers We Lost in 2015
Coming Attractions
2016:
Cliche? Maybe, but I am looking forward to the entire year. I started physical therapy this week and in just a few months I will be better than ever. Awareness for the sport has grown and more people are pushing the boundaries of what is possible. 2016 is going to be exciting and I just can’t pick one element over the other. Projects will go down and more areas will be saved, but through it all, our community will continue to grow.
Special Mention – Hound Ears Competition:
I would like to thank anyone that has read our blog over the last year, whether it was just in passing or you were a regular reader, it has meant a lot to us. The blog has been a way for us to connect with folks all over the world, particularly with Justin’s post explaining the new scoring system for nationals, We have used the platform to recount great achievements, keep me honest with my training manual intentions, and allowed us the opportunity do a little bit of complaining. The blog has been great fun and we hope to expand our Crank Climbing offerings beyond the internet in 2016 with our own events, so stay tuned!
-Tylor Streett