Hot Sends
Alex Honnold and Colin Haley – Torre Traverse:
After learning how to be a successful alpine climber with Tommy Caldwell by being the first to complete the Fitz Roy Traverse in early 2015, he joined forces with Torre Egger solo record holder Colin Haley for a new goal. They completed the Torre Traverse which links the four peaks of Carro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre, The original line was completed in 2008 in four days but the dynamic team of Haley and Honnold completed the line in 21 hours!
Jimmy Webb – L’Alchemiste (V13):
This line got a lot of press when it was climbed and then mysteriously chipped nearly twenty years ago and then didn’t see a second ascent until last year. The second and third ascenists (Nalle Hukkataival and Alban Levier) figured it was now aorund V15/16. Then, Barefoot Charles sent it last month and gave it V15. Jimmy did this problem first thing upon arriving in France and returned it to its original grade of V13 claiming that the what ever better you use does not have any effect on the grade putting an end to the debate.
Tom Ballard – A Line Above the Sky (D15):
Clocking in at 45m with 25 clips and all massively overhung, this may be the first ever D15. The link-up of the three routes Reel Steel (D9), French Connection (D15-), and Je Ne Sais Qois(D14) was a shoulder shredding pump fest. Perhaps made harder because Ballard did the line in the French Dry Tooling Style (DTS) which means no figure-fours, figure-nines, third grips or extended tools. If the grade stands, then it will be the hardest dry tolling route in the world!
Tim Emmett and Klemen Preml- Interstellar Spice (WI 12):
This route is perhaps one of the scariest ever since it is climbed entirely on spray ice and needed have bolts in the rock to make it safe. Coming in at 260 feet and completely overhanging done it one long pitch, it tacks on a long finish to the established Clash of the Titans (WI 10+) and finishes just short of the lip. Ice dagers up to 30 feet long leave ropes open to being cut up or severed if any ax placement goes wrong. AS the first ascensionists say, “it’s full value.”
Elliott Faber – Gnocchi (V7):
Why is a V7 making this list of top of the line ascents? Because 1) it’s a highball, 2) it’s in the Buttermilks, a region that quickly reaching capacity even including link-ups and variations, and 3) Elliott Faber is not really well known in the greater community despite his prolific ascents and repeats. Take a look at the video and tell me how many of you guys could sack up and send.
Drew Ruana – Assassin (5.14d):
A wild three route link-up at Smith Rock that has been a long sought after test piece includes the start of Shock and Awe (5.14c), the crux sections of Villian (moving passed the chains of Shock and Awe), and then finishes on White Wedding (5.14a). Drew had to take a break from working the route to compete in Junior Nationals and managed to take third place there. On his first day back to Smith, he claimed the FA, a standing project since before he was born. link-ups are clearly the future of hard routes.
Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert – Le Pied a Coulisse (V15/V13?):
After putting the crush on L’Alchemiste, Jimmy Webb met up with Barefoot Charles to tackle the newest addition to Font. Claimed by first ascensionist Guilaume Glarion-Mondet to be the first and only V16 in the forest, Webb used his beta and called it V15. Charles Albert, in his preferred barefoot style, managed to shave off several moves that were only possible with his unique method and called it V13, but only if you can sneak those moves. Shoes proved to be literally too bulky to use Albert’s beta, so good luck.
Alex Puccio and Jakob Schubert – Hueco Rock Rodeo:
Perhaps the longest running outdoor competition in the United States, the 23rd Hueco Rock Rodeo went off without a hitch. Strong-woman Alex Puccio took first by a long shot for the ladies and the German Jakob Schubert finished in first for the men by repeating Desperenza (V14/15) on his first try. After a full of competition on the rock, competitors fall back to the Hueco Rock Ranch for a Dyno comp, pull-up contest, and an all night after party.
Adam Ondra – Stoking the Fire (5.15b):
The Santa Linya cave in Spain holds some of the hardest routes in the world, two of which had been un-repeated after Chris Sharma sent them in 2013. Adam Ondra spent some time there last year and put doen some of the moderate 5.14s, but Stoking the Fire and Neanderthal were out of his reach. He returned and put the work in and finally put Stoking the Fire to rest. Ondra is quickly running out of 5.15’s to climb, but Neaderthal is still waiting for him on his next tour of Spain.
Calls to Action
Rumney Northwest Crags; Rumney, NH:
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Local Events
PRG Heart Burn, East Falls, PA:
February 20 – For the first two years, this event was held on the same weekend as Valentine’s Day. I assume that the organizers caved to pressure from competitor’s significant others and moved it to the weekend after. If you have never been to East Falls, it is a feature-centric bouldering gym with only a little bit of TR in the back for parties and the like. Having a gym set up like this means that finals turns into highball finals and boy has it become a crowd favorite. The final stop in the Burn Series before finals and it was a big hit.
Climbnasium Frostbite, Mechanicsburg, PA:
I say it every year, that this is one of my favorite comps of the year, and I had to be sidelined thanks to my recovery. Where other gyms and outdoor comps have unique features, state of the art designs, or grand locales, Climbnasium has all of the fun. Built in an old barn and just as cold inside as it is outside, this simple comp of locals only brings us back to what climbing is all about, having fun.
Crank Candy
Augmented Reality Climbing:
Video
Community Losses
WOO!!! No climbing related deaths were reported in February! Great work everyone on keeping everyone else safe!
Coming Attractions
Friction Burn Invitational Championships:
March 12 – Yes, it already happened, but it was stil pretty cool that one of our won, Justin Meserve, was one of the top 12 in his category (Men’s Open) to be invited to compete in the finals for the 2015-2016 season. Remember, this is the only local competition series for regular adults in the country so this is a pretty big deal.
-Tylor Streett, clearly has too much to do outside of this blog…My apologies.