Anyone with even a passing interest in Yosemite should know the name John “Largo” Long.  His climbing exploits were cutting edge in their time, and he has since become a prolific writer of both technical and historical non-fiction, as well as captivating editorials (his piece ‘The Only Blasphemy’ still makes my stomach turn over).  Today I review one of his more well known works:

This book is mostly autobiographical, looking at John’s induction into climbing, and his rise into a real force in the California climbing scene.  I enjoy John’s style of writing, with tall tales and humorous follies all described in “purple” prose, complete with colorful analogies if you just weren’t getting the complete picture.  Because of this effort to explain everything in detail, the book is as accessible to the non-climber as the hardened veteran, providing a rundown of how the various systems, methods, and techniques work.

Its bittersweet, in many ways, to read. First, inevitably, many of the mentors and heroes detailed herein are no longer with us. The second is a bit of rose colored glasses, and false nostalgia.  The way John and friends learned climbing, by reading a book, buying a rope, and wandering into the wilderness, would be slammed as foolish, dangerous, and unsafe in today’s world.  Attempting to bolt their first routes ground-up, onsight, knowing bolting on rappel to be an option, but a “dirty” one. It’s a reminder that the dichotomy between “safe” and “less-safe” is different than that between “safe” and “unsafe”.  Its a reminder to me to step in when there’s mortal danger due to someone’s ignorance, and to let it go and let others learn lessons from smaller mistakes.

Back to the book (and off my high horse), if you’ve read any of John’s most popular articles, seen him in the movies, and studied any Yosemite history, 70% of this book is going to be old hat, which detracted a bit for me. All the greatest hits and catch phrases are in there, but the 30% you don’t know is reason enough to pick it up. More than the exploits, I found value in this book shedding light on the characters and personalities of the time.  Names that would otherwise be lost and legends that would only be heard by the fortunate few around the campfire.  If you’re not a voracious consumer of Yosemite related nostalgia, I think you’ll enjoy it even more hearing those and the better know tales for the first time. It’s a quick read and a fun jaunt through one man’s perspective on the day and age of the Stonemasters, and with used copies floating around Amazon shipped to your door for about $7 it won’t break the bank.  Pitch in with a couple friends and pass it around!