Another British bouldering film? I know we’ve been doing a lot of these recently, but there are many, and more topically, this one went on YouTube in full recently (foolish me for fighting to get a DVD copy!)
Life on Hold showcases proper hard bouldering in the UK, and it delivers right off the bat with an opening shot that frames the iconic Careless Torque, and from there it doesn’t stop, or even slow down. There’s no voiceover, no exposition, no over-arching narrative, and at most a sentence or two of interview musing every now and then. With the chaff stripped away, it packs in a new boulder problem every 2 minutes on average. Those problems span from hard yet uninspiring drop-offs, to test-pieces like Cipher and Voyager, to ropeless attempts on James Pearson’s The Promise.
Outside the occasional drop-off problem, they picked real plums to showcase – tall powerful lines largely, with the odd super delicate friction slab mixed in. As someone who professes to love proud lines over sketch landings, some of the desperate positions and off-kilter falls are the stuff of my nightmares, but mercifully there’s no resulting carnage. The footage of Sampson, The Promise, The Prow, and Return of the Jedi will have even the most hardened palms sweating.
Technically, its an interesting film; close-ups of terrible holds appear to enhance the experience, and for a smaller production company they do an excellent job staying away from boring, single angle static shots. Multiple camera angles and movingtracking shots are employed to great effect most of the time, the occasional handicam motion-sickness notwithstanding. The audio is crisp, for better or worse, highlighting the grind of rubber and skin on stone, and also highlighting road noise, sirens, and film camera shutters. When ambient noise isn’t there, the consistently mellow soundtrack is present in full force – it’s not my preferred genre, but I won’t let my tastes impinge here, and it generally suits the vibe of the film. The only thing that strikes me slightly odd were some of the choices in ordering the segments shown. There are some great, high-tension highball shots mid-film that seem like they would have made an excellent addition to the final crescendo.
Verdict: Watch it – Overall, its excellent bouldering flick, with ample footage of important British lines, over a dozen athletes, hard moves, and some pucker inducing falls.
The Who:
Ned Feehally
David Mason
Dan Varian
Michele Caminati
Jon Partridge
Micky Page
Martin Smith
Ryan Pasquill
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
Katy Whittaker
Chris Webb-Parsons
Shauna Coxey
Alex Puccio
The What:
Careless Torque
River of Life 7c+
Fire in the Rain 8b
Solomon Grundy 7c+
Chiasmate 8a
300 Pounds of Musclin Man
Raw deal 7c+
Sal Goose
My Orange
The Bitch 8a+
8 Ball 8a+
Lowrider 7c+
Andronicus 8a+
Cypher 8b
Born Lippy 8a
Pulp Friction 7c+
Working Class Sit 8b
The Prow 8a
The Pride 6c+
Lip of Fools 7c
County Ethics 7c
Return of the Jedi 7c
Sampson E9 7b
High Fidelity 8b
The Promise 7c
Dark Star 7c+
Sauvito 7b
Walk on By 7c+
Voyager 8b
Stanton Deliver 8a+ (FA)
Superbloc 8a+
The Angel’s Share 7c
Keen Roof 8b
Serenity 8b
Zoo York 8a
Dark Reservation 8a+