Who are you? Zoe Steinberg
How long have you been bouldering? Yes.
Fast stats? 5’4″, +4″ ape index, max doughnuts consumed in an hour- 4
Preferred Style? I like when the rocks I’m climbing have actual holds and are not just beach balls with texture. Beyond that, pinches and crimps on steep are my jam
What draws you to a boulder? Various character failings that make touching rocks in the woods more fun than most normal social interactions?
In actuality, I tend to be drawn to proud, basic lines. I think most of the boulders I’d like to do most in my life are generally pretty tall and look very straightforward, even if they don’t climb that way. I think there’s something really inspiring about seeing a piece of rock that looks almost blank and being able to climb it.
Zoe’s 10 Under V10
She says: I tried my best to rank them in my mind and on paper, but past the first few, time and distance leaves the order muddled, overshadowed only by great memories with good friends.
- Slartibartfast (7B+/V8) – Lofoten Islands, Norway
When I first started making this list, there were a lot of possible choices…cuts had to be made, not everyone could make Varsity. Even though I debated for quite a while on which boulders would be included, it was very clear to me early on that this boulder would take the number one slot, which I think says something. Picture a standalone bloc in a field of bright green grass, the water off in the distance. Fun, flowy moves on amazing holds lead to a big throw to a good crimp, then a relief jug before a top-out tall enough and tricky enough to require some commitment. This boulder is one of my most memorable sends, and one that I would happily do again anytime I was in the area. Overall, can’t recommend it enough.
- La Baleine (7A+/V7) – Fontainebleau, France
This was definitely a highlight of my first longer-term climbing trip abroad back in 2019. As amazing as Magic Wood and Mallorca had been prior to arriving in Font, I was dealing with a finger injury during those portions of the trip, which meant I wasn’t able to climb nearly as much or try anywhere near as hard as I wanted. By the time I got to Font, my finger was a bit better and the slabby, slopey style that Font is famous for also helped quite a bit. However, the trade-off for that style was a pretty steep learning curve, so it took about a week to really start feeling comfortable there. Around then, I happened to get on this line and do it in a few tries, which was a good feeling. Super fun compression with a spicy-but-safe landing leads to a big lock-off over a slopey bulge- exactly what should come to mind when you think of climbing in Font. This one is absolutely a must-do for anyone climbing around or above the grade.
- Blue Sky of Mine (6A+/V3) – Magic Wood, Switzerland
This is by far my favorite “easy” boulder out there, at least so far. A series of decent crimps on small feet bring you to some good side-pull rails at about one-third height, which you then take to the top. The last third of this problem is significantly easier than anything you did at the start of it, but you’re still going to want to be careful- you’re high enough off the deck that you do NOT want to blow it up there. The height is actually something that I really enjoyed while doing this boulder; it was really cool to have a climb at this grade range be technically difficult low down where the fall is clean, then ease up significantly when the height starts to make things spicy.
- 7 Spanish Angels (V6) – Bishop, CA, USA
Much as I really enjoy spending time in the desert, a possibly-controversial hot take of mine is that I don’t find many desert boulders terribly picturesque. Don’t get me wrong, I love climbing on them…the scenery just isn’t as striking to me as forests or other landscapes. That said, this one is very much an exception to that perspective. You’ll find this boulder right off the road in the Buttermilks, but as it’s a bit past the main area there tends to be fewer crowds. The backdrop of the Sierras against this bloc in particular is stunning, and the flat landing makes it easy to set up a nice gym floor for you to land on when you miss the top dyno. This one is definitely a contender for best boulder under V10 in the US, at least in my opinion.
- Noel (V8) – Haycock, PA, USA
A typical Pennsylvania diabase boulder with an atypical style. This one has become something of a neoclassic since being put up a few years ago, and it’s easy to understand why. The location of this line on North Mountain makes it far less crowded (and therefore less polished) than other lines of comparable quality and difficulty at more popular areas, plus it’s skin-friendly with a mellow top-out. All this combined with a unique sequence more commonly found in a gym than the PA backwoods make this one a must-do. You’ll either find it super soft or really tough for the grade, depending on your feelings about more standard diabase climbing.
- Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) – Hueco Tanks, TX, USA
I was a little hesitant to put this one on the list because it’s a send from over ten years ago that I have not had the chance to get back on, but the fact that it still immediately came to mind for this list despite the time gap convinced me that it deserved to be included. Picture the biggest huecos you can imagine, put them sideways in a roof, and try to climb them out the roof using as many heel and toe hooks as possible. Amazing holds, varied movement, and a low-commitment landing earned this one its spot on the list.
- Nose Candy (V6) – Rocktown, GA, USA
In my opinion, this is the type of boulder that proves that the Southeast can throw down with places like Bishop or Hueco any day. Fun movement, cool holds, bizarrely aesthetic honeycomb roof? Yes to all of them. Another benefit of this line relative to others in the same grade and style range in the southeast is the lack of crowds. Although Rocktown has definitely become more popular in the 12+ years that I’ve been climbing there, in my experience crowds here have generally been smaller than at LRC and Horse Pens, save for at a few specific boulders (cough *The Orb* cough). If you’re looking for an entry-level V6 with a chill landing and steep stuff is your thing, look no further and get yourself down here.
- Springbok (V7) – Rocklands, South Africa
I think the thing that I regret most about my trip to Rocklands (I guess besides actually caring about my job at the time and not just spending the whole season there) is that I didn’t set myself any volume goals and instead focused a bit on projecting. I got a few cool sends out of that approach, but I definitely wish that I had done a few more area classics while there. I can’t be too upset though, as it gives me an excuse to make a return trip, and I did manage to send this must-do line as well. A fun intro leads airy crux that can be done either as a big dyno or tenuous lock-off then a victory top-out high enough to make you very aware of how much you don’t want to fall. Do this one to remind yourself exactly how worth it the 20+ hours of flight time and jetlag your trip to South Africa really was, and you won’t be disappointed.
- King Fischer (7A/V6) – Lofoten Islands, Norway
If you were to do a quick Google search of bouldering in Lofoten, the first thing to pop up would very likely be photos of this climb. A “king” line (see what I did there?) sitting by itself in the middle of a field of grass, the ocean a short walk away, and at a relatively accessible grade – what more could you ask for? I suppose you could be needy and want it to actually flow well in addition to being one of the most picturesque boulders in the world. If so, you’d still be in luck because this one climbs just as good as it looks.
- Little Fluffy Clouds (V5) – Haycock, PA, USA
It seems fitting to finish this list off with a (formerly) local-to-me crowd favorite. Unlike the majority of eastern Pennsylvania diabase boulders, this line does not involve death-crimping mini razors, nor does it have a top-out that requires mantling onto grippy beach balls and praying that you stick. Instead, this Pennsylvania classic features fun moves on good edges and heel hooks up the side of a block to pump you out a bit before the final deadpoint. I would bet this is one of the top 3 most-climbed boulders in eastern Pennsylvania, and it’s not without good reason.