If you know anything about sport climbing in the United States, then you know that Smith Rock is the birthplace of hard sport in the 80’s.  Ushered in by a pursuit of the first 5.14 in America, a Euro ethic in bolting hard, blank faces, and larger than life personalities like Alan Watts, Todd Skinner, and JB Tribout, this is Smith Rock at its peak sense of adventure.  To read more about that wild ride, check out our review of Hangdog Days.  Put together by the Outback Channel in 2006 as a collection of never before seen footage of classic climbs, I gotta give props to the camera operators for both filming these hard lines with those massive, over the shoulder cameras and for keeping those VHS tapes intact for 20 years.  When JB unlocked Rude Boys (5.13c) after a few seasons of attempts from Watts, the send train left the station Watts quickly follows suit and we are treated to both.  It may seem weird to show the same route twice in row as the opening for a film, but they do it so differently that it may as well be a few routes down the wall.  The ladies get in on the action too and show the boys how it’s done on gear rather than [pansy] bolts.  The crown jewel of the film is the special feature of JB Tribout’s first ascent of East Face of Monkey Face.  It is 18 minutes long in one long, unbroken shot and the iron bands of muscle shine through oh so clearly.  He was a god among men that season, climbing in blunted shoes no better than 5.10 Coyotes and lycra tights.  I got tired just watching him, but no less inspired.  A few days later, he would claim the first 5.14 in America (To Bolt or Not to Be), but that is its own film and masterpiece.  Perhaps that is why this film works.  It takes you right up to the precipice of history by showing the build-up, and because you know what comes next, it leaves you wanting more.

Personally, I like the style of film as well, with interviews of the featured climber giving their take on the region and why they climb for a few minutes before cutting to the video of their best/favorite route.  They don’t wax poetically about the philosophy of climbing in voice over, but about why Smith Rock is so much fun and why you should get out there ASAP.  And then the climbing footage is all about the send with chill beats.

Verdict: Borrow It.  It is about 2 minutes over an hour in run time even when you include the East Face of Monkey Face extra so it’s not worth the money unless it’s part of collection.  However, it is a piece of history and does deserve at least one viewing.

Climbers Shown:

Alan Watts
Jean-Baptiste (JB) Tribout
Mick Johnston
Kristen Drumheller
Mark Sonnenfeld
Dan Michael
Jean Marc Troussier
Beth Wald
Todd Skinner

Routes Featured:

Rude Boys, 5.13c
Darkness at Noon, 5.13a
Wartley’s Revenge, 5.11b
Split Image, 5.12c/d
Latin Lover, 5.12a
Sunshine, 5.11d
Double Stain, 5.13a/b
East Face of Monkey Face, 5.13c/d