Welcome readers, to our last entry into the “History of V16” series. Its gonna be a long one, so buckle up. Below I will try an cover all the V16 proposals, and their fates, including, and this may surprise some people, proposed upgrades.
The History of V16/8C+, Part 1: From 1978 to V15
The History of 8C+/V16 Part 2: 2004 – 2011(ish)
Mandatory Disclaimer: None of the grades represented here are my own. I’ve never climbed any of these problems, and therefore I have no ability to have an opinion, I am merely reporting (with links where I can) the opinions of others. When I say something “was downgraded”, I just mean later ascentionists have suggested a lower number, and not that its some official judicial ruling from over here in my armchair.
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2011
Asagimadara – Japan’s first entry on the list, from Tokio Muroi. Its tall, its bold, and Tokio is known for not using pads (and as the man that put up what’s likely the world’s hardest slab, Banshoua). Tokio gave it a rating of 6DAN, which may or may not translate to 8C+. Repeaters include a who’s who: Toru Nakajima, Toshi Takeuchi, Jongwon Chon, Ondra, Amma, and Murai, all of whom weigh it in at 8C. Status: Grade Conversion Error
Terranova – After all the downgrading that came before, this was hailed as one of the first V16s (video), because if Worlds-Best-Climber Adam Ondra didn’t know what 8C+ was, who does? I think everyone, Ondra included, agrees that this is not the prettiest line, a traverse on slick stone along the base of a crag with a drop-off finish, but watching the video, it looks hard. Status: Unrepeated
Gioia – This boulder was first climbed by early Dreamtime ascentionist Christian Core, who felt it was his hardest, and gave it the 8C grade. In 2011 it finally saw a repeat at the hands of Adam Ondra who decided it deserved the upgrade to 8C+. The only other ascentionist was Nalle Hukkatival, who never really registered an opinion on the matter. Things were complicated when a US crew came to town and while attempting new beta unintentionally crumbled a previously unused foothold, leaving a better hold behind. Christian, in the interest of preserving the line as he, Adam, and Nalle had done it, attempted to glue the foothold back together but in doing so made it functionally unuseable. Whatever your stance, I’d recommend reading Adam Ondra’s breakdown of the situation in the comment section here. Status: Mixed Opinions
2014
Crisis – Nacho Sanchez put up this line as an 8C/+, has held the grade after a repeat by Jonatan Flor. It’s technically a slash grade, so I won’t give it full points, but the 21 move roof problem definitely deserves some recognition. Status: Slash Grade
2015
The Process – Documented in Reel Rock’s High and Mighty, this resides on the same boulder as Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming and climbs Blood Meridian / Social Distortion at V12/13, linking into 3-4 moves that would check in at V14 by themselves, into a V10 lipslab encounter. Despite the best efforts of crimpmasters like Dan Beall, its not seen a second ascent. Status: Unrepeated
2016
Le teoria del todo – A second Spainish line, and this one with an initial solid 8C+ suggested by FAish Alberto Rocasolano. Unfortunately, the first repeat by Ruben Diaz suggested it to be 8C, and all subsequent ascentionists thereafter have suggested an even more “mundane” 8B+ for the line (because I mean, V14 is just boring, right?). Status: Downgraded
Creature from the Black Lagoon – With 6 ascents and only one suggestion of 8C/+ amongst a sea of 8C+ from who’s who, this is the most popular V16 out there. As they worked toward the first ascent, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham had a discussion about the grade stagnation (related, this is an amazing concise article on all the rambling I’m doing here):
“We are left dumbfounded to realize that the same level in bouldering has been maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem Loskot a decade ago until now,” Woods wrote in an Instagram post. “We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing V15 for another decade.”
Status: Confirmed
La Pied a Coulisse – Put up by French IFSC superstar Guillaume Glairon Mondet (GuiGui to his friends), this problem is located in Font and required quite a bit of effort. The initial grade suggestion was based on comparisons to the effort required on other Font blocs and a comparison to the 8C benchmark of TSoTW. It was later repeated by Jimmy Webb, who followed GuiGui’s path, and Charles Albert who took a more direct line out of the roof (perhaps only possible barefoot). While Webb agreed that it was one of the hardest in the forest, he felt it was deserving of the 8C grade. Status: Downgraded
Hypnotized Minds – Hey! Wait a minute! This was first climbed in 2010, what gives? In 2010, DWoods put up this line on the Veritas boulders. In 2016, Daniel opted to upgrade it himself. Since then its been repeated (quickly) by crimp-master Rustam Gelmanov and Dave Graham after a multi-season battle. Status: Confirmed
2017
The Finnish Line – Nalle got the first ascent of this striking line in Rocklands, and noted it as a contender for the hardest line there. It seems Nalle called it 8C/+, and the promotional video by his sponsor Black Diamond called it V16. Subsequent repeaters including Alex Megos, Shaun Raboutou, and Daniel Woods seem to have found an easier hand sequence up high, and most since have logged it as 8C. Status: Slash Grade AND Downgraded
La Revolutionnaire – Barefoot wonder Charles Albert added 3 hard moves to his proposed 8C, yielding the hardest line in Font at the time. Its one repeater, Ryohei Kameyama (video), noted it was harder than Big Island, so probably 8C+. Status: Confirmed
El Indomable – Our third Spanish entry, and again a line opened by Alberto Rocasolano (who’s first 8C+ suggestion from 2016 was downgraded in early 2017). Nacho Sanchez plucked the first repeat, and despite it requiring multiple seasons and a home-wall replica, felt it was easier than Crisis and therefore only 8C, but noted time will tell. Status: Downgraded
Nayuta – Dai Koyamada is no stranger to hard grades, and proposed this line as the first V16 in his home country of Japan. It’s never been repeated…. on account of someone smashing the holds off with a hammer Status: Destroyed
Vrtule – Like Crisis above, this line was actually given a slash grade of 8C/+ by its first ascentionist, Adam Ondra. Like Ondra’s other contribution, Terranova, its a low traverse to a drop off finish, not super aesthetic but super hard (video). Status: Unrepeated AND Slash Grade
Box Therapy – Daniel Woods faced a long battle on this line in RMNP, a low start of Tommy Caldwell’s V11 Spread Eagle. It links a new V14/15 sequence into the existing line, but leads to a position that makes Spread Eagle feel V12. It took 91 miles of hiking, but he eventually managed to link all the moves. Status: Unrepeated
Hypothese Assis – Another suggestion from Charles Albert, this ‘Assis’ adds two hard moves to Hypothese, a 7C+ in Font. They must be two very hard moves – both to bump it a whole number grade, and because as far as I can tell, no one has repeated them yet. Status: Unrepeated
Off the Wagon Low – Anyone who has seen the Dosage series knows this boulder, starting on a hay cart. Envisioned but unsent by Sharma, Nalle came behind and took down the stand start, which Shawn Raboutou added a lower start to. It’s been repeated by Woods and Webb with no suggestion of a downgrade in sight. Status: Confirmed
Sleepwalker – Speaking of envisioning lines sent by others, Nalle saw this great line in Red Rocks but was unable to get the first ascent. Before he could return the next season, Jimmy Webb finally put it all together, with Daniel Woods close behind. Nalle would make it back in time to snag the third ascent, silent crusher Griffin Whiteside the fourth, and Drew Ruana stopped in for the fifth. Haven’t heard any talk of a downgrade. Status: Confirmed
2019
Livin Large – Nalle sent this highball in 2009 and later stated it was harder than any 8C he’d done up until then, potentially even 8C+ but he’d leave that for repeaters to decide (Related, that article is an excellent stand-in if you don’t want to go back and read Parts 1 and 2). For Jimmy Webb, it held the 8C grade. Later repeater Shawn Raboutou, who thought that Creature from the Black Lagoon felt a little easier than the rest of repeaters, voted it deserving of an upgrade. The jury is still out. Status: Mixed Opinions
Poison the Well – One of two 8C+ proposed by Giuliano Cameroni that year. It has so far held the grade after a repeat by Jimmy Webb. Status: Confirmed
REM – The other 8C+ by Giuliano (see above for video), as the name implies this line is on the Dreamtime boulder. Paul Robinson made a quick repeat utilizing some different foot beta and checked in with a downgrade to 8B+. Status: Downgrade
Ephrya – Jimmy Webb snagged this longstanding project, that heads due left off the start of From Dirt Grows the Flowers, Dave Graham’s mantle test-piece in Switzerland. Status: Unrepeated
United – Ryuichi Murai added this low start to and existing V14 and created the hardest surviving line in Japan
2020
Brutal Rider Ice Breaker – Adam Ondra literally sent this as I was writing this article. Brutal Rider is a long long boulder problem, linking the start of Brutus (V12) into the existing V15, Ghost Rider. He reckons were it a route, it’d be 9b. Ice Breaker links an 8B start into an 8C called Iceberg, Ondra calling it a 9b/+ route (video here). Status: Unrepeated
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What’s it all mean?
Of the ~25 boulders with an outright (no slash) V16 suggested originally:
- 8 have never been repeated (2 on account of being destroyed)
- 12 have had downgrades proposed by subsequent ascentionists
Other observations:
- Spain and Czech have hard lines that haven’t been exposed to the scrutiny of the larger community but probably deserve some love.
- People need to stop smashing stuff with hammers.
- With how few ascents total there have been, I don’t think anyone can say for certain which was the “first” V16, yet.
Finally:
We’re getting back to The Dude Grades too. There are only a handful of people out there that are 8C+ strong, and of the boulders listed here in ‘Part 3’, regardless of their fate, two names stick out:
- Daniel Woods has sent 7 (and FA’d 4)
- Jimmy Webb has sent 7 (and FA’s 2)
They aren’t the only two, as Nalle, Shawn, and Ondra are climbing the ranks (although I think Adam’s case would benefit if others were to repeat his lines).
So what have we learned? Climbing grades, especially those are the very cutting edge, are always going to be the subject of debate and conjecture, and its not until the community at large catches up that we begin to see the bounds and the consensus of the grade. Climbing is clearly still progressing in difficulty, and I look forward to seeing more and more repeats of these insanely hard lines. Hopefully it takes a few more years for V17 to really materialize (the two suggested so far notwithstanding), as this series of articles took much too long to write.
-Justin Meserve, is apparently a historian of the sort of climbing he will never be strong enough to do, but he sure does love reading the news.
