Gear Guide – The Crag Car

The Crag Car.  You know you’re getting committed to a hobby when it influences major decisions like what car you’re driving – I’d do a follow up article on where to move if climbing means that much to you, but you already know. Being a lifelong gearhead and son of an award winning mechanic (not kidding), I’ve always had an interest in cars and their utility, or lack thereof.  Lets look at some common and uncommon crag cars and hopefully you can find what works for you:

The Sprinter Van

File:Sprinter with a 4x4 conversion..jpg

This is the much loved, much maligned, king of the heap.  If you can afford any version of it, you’ll be riding in spacious style and become one of the tribe.  If you can’t, well then you’re like the rest of us, just keep reading.

Pros: Its ubiquitous with the lifestyle climber

Cons: Its ubiquitous with the “lifestyle” climber

Sprinter Alternative – The Astro Van

File:1st Chevrolet Astro.jpg

Smaller in every way, the AstroSafari twins are a great GM offering thats a little different than your generic soccer van, and much more affordable up front.

Pros:  Jason Kehl had one, as did Sonny Trotter. Available in AWD.

Cons: Smaller than the Sprinter, and if its anything like the same year S10s, the #3 spark plug is a nightmare to replace.  Parts are getting harder to find.

The Subaru Wagon(s)

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Like Birkenstocks and Kombucha, the Subaru is where its at for the climber than still needs to fit in with the hipster crowd.  Seek out an Impreza, or for an upgrade, go all the way to the Forester.

Pros: GreenHippie cred, cool boxer engine sound, and the WRX trim runs like a scalded dog.

Cons: Flat-bill, Monster drinking, grape vaping Kyle cred also.

Wagon Alternative – The Woodie Wagon


File:Buick Roadmaster Wagon.jpg

Most wagons are where truck utility meets sedan comfort. Roadmaster wagons on other hand:

  • 5.7L V8, like a truck
  • body on frame construction, like a truck
  • 18 friggin feet long, like a truck
  • All wrapped up in a svelte 4500lb leather lined package

Pros: Seats 8, can fit a sheet of plywood in the back with the tailgate closed, tows 5000 pounds, and yours truly owns one.

Cons:  Thirstier than a teen on prom night, and if you have a 90s one like me, someone put the spark plug wiring BEHIND the water pump.

The Author’s Recommendation – Honda Element


File:2003-2006 Honda Element -- 08-28-2011.jpg

I know, I know, the early 2000s were a weird time where manufacturers thought we wanted car-sized SUVs shaped like toasters. You had your choice of the Scion xB, the Kia Soul, the aptly named Nissan Cube, or the OG, the Element.

Pros: Honda reliable, Honda gas mileage, Honda parts availability, rubber floor mats, rotating and removable seats.

Cons: None, but if you can’t find one, consider the Scoutmaster special, the Honda CR-V a passable option.

Element Alternative – Honda Civic

If you’re new to climbing, and ask me for a belay device recommendation, I’m going to tell you to get an ATC. Likewise, if you ask me what car to buy for your regular life, I’m going to to say Civic (Corolla is a close second). You can’t swing a slung hex without hitting a Civic, and that’s because they are cheap, reliable cars that just plain get the job done.

Pros:  Late great badass Brad Gobright lived out of one for years.

Cons:  Brad Gobright, who subsisted on complementary saltines, butter pats, mustard packets, and donuts for years, lived out of one for years.

Ultimate Darkhorse: Pontiac Aztek

This might sound odd, but those who study history know the Aztek was a car before it’s time. It was one of the first CUVs, had all sorts of camper friendly options (built in cooler, 120V outlets, 4×8 interior, optional tent accessory), and for a while was unloved, so you could get one cheap.

Pros: This thing had all the goodies, and Walter White drove one.

Cons: Walter White drove one, and even though it was initially a flop, they now have a (deserved) cult following and prices are skyrocketing.

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At the end of the day, there is only one thing that’s actually essential for a crag car.  It needs to be reliable – a broke down car is no car at all. As someone who manages the risk of driving a “beater” car by owning multiple, I wouldn’t recommend that course of action. What are the odds they ALL break? Higher than you think.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I need to go finish the complete engine rebuild for that woodie wagon.

Justin Meserve is diehard gearhead, always handy with a wrench. And a welder. And all the types of hammer. Not because he wants to be, but because he has to be.