It’s no secret that we are all going through a crisis with the Covid-19 pandemic.  Gyms have been closing across the world, we can’t hang out in groups, and no one can seem to find the “important papers.”  In the early days (like a week ago) of the current catastrophe, many of us had the idea to go on a sweet road trip.  Spring break was here, gas prices were/are in free fall, flights are at rock bottom prices, we had the chance to work remotely or not at all, so we made the best of it.  With our indoor sessions on hiatus, why not return to our roots and touch some real stone.

Then, some of the more sought-after locales started reporting problems on Monday and officials started urging or outright closing access.  Bishop, Moab, Red River Gorge, Rumney, and Squamish all make that list and more that are sure to follow.  But why?  First, the obvious one, travel is still dangerous.  You could unknowingly spread or contract the virus through the airport, rest stops, and campsites.  Second, most of our climbing meccas are located in small towns where resources are already limited.  That includes groceries, medical supplies, and even space for the appropriate amount of social distancing.

Finally, local officials are struggling to care for their own and don’t need the added burden should a climber come down with a sudden case shattered ankle.  This is a huge bummer for all of us.  So with every organization asking us not to travel, including the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, and all of the climbing media outlets, what can we do?  We have a few suggestions to get you through these trying times:

I know, I know, many of us do not live near readily available rocks.  Some live in tragically flat states, others may have ongoing access issues, and still more, while living “near” world class areas are still outside the recommended 1-hour radius for travel to be considered local enough.  These are truly tests of character and resilience, and might make you rethink where you live for the future.

If, however, you are lucky enough to live near rocks, cliffs, and other vertical adventures, then go ahead and visit, but use the current safe suggestions.  These include minimizing group size, contact with other groups, and, as always, leave the pets at home to reduce interaction at the crag.  Maybe you will rediscover a long-lost favorite, send a forgotten project you ditched for something more exotic, or fall in love with climbing all over again as you treasure what you still have.  We have another article dropping soon about why you should explore every possibility, no matter the grade.  Some of my greatest memories have been rediscovering or reclaiming lines that haven’t seen traffic many years in my own backyard.

Found One!

Depending on where you live, the season may be anywhere from six to three months deep.  Of course, if you live in the southeast, the season never really got off the ground because it has rained an average of 7 ½ days a week since October 1^st of 2019.  If you have been going hard, maybe it’s time address that nagging finger tweak, elbow twinge, or shoulder click.  Take some time and rest.  One major fault many of us have as climbers is to simply climb through pain and injury.  I may or may not be guilty of this (i.e. – competing in a boot at Triple Crown after I broke my ankle.  But hey, it was the week before surgery, what was I going to do, make it worse?).  And while that is an extreme example, even a grade 1 pulley strain may not stop us dead in our tracks, but will certainly take longer to heal if all we do is tape up and keep going.  Take this gift, relax, work on your range of motion, stretch, foam roll, anything to get you back up to 100%.  Let your body heal and be ready for sending later when it is safe to be near your spotter/belayer.

We live in a remarkable age of streaming movies, downloadable books, and nothing but free time.  Climbing Mag has released a list of some of the best climbing films and where to find them on various streaming services HERE.  Of course, since we have the time, film reviews are in the works.  There are plenty of books of harrowing epic stories, amazing biographies, and of course guide or skill related books.  Heck, you could even earn your Doctorate of Climbology with THIS LIST from 2015.  Make a plan for the fall by perusing Mountain Project, scour YouTube and forums for all the beta, make a dream board if you have to!  The point is, the rocks aren’t going anywhere and you can use this time to make a good plan instead of winging it.

I hate to say it, but the season might be at a premature ending.  Unless you are part of the lucky population from the first section and can still get out to salvage what you still can, you can use this time to get a leg up on training for the Fall season.  Of course, if you need the rest, follow the advice in the second section so you don’t miss out later this year.  Along with all this extra time, you can write out a comprehensive plan for improvement or simply follow one of the free programs or sessions that many gyms and magazines are providing for free to keep the psych and progress going like the Gripped Follow Along Workout.  You could even do something as simple as go for a run or bike ride and maintain that capillary base to keep the dreaded pump at bay next time you pull on.  We will be posting a simple workout guide for home use as well later this week to allow you to plug and play.

Some of us can get so wrapped up in who we are as climbers that we forget the other pieces of ourselves that make us whole, and when we lose climbing, we risk losing our identity.  Just because you can’t meet your regular partner at the gym or go on your trip doesn’t mean that you aren’t still friends.  Or maybe it does, but that is exactly what we are trying to fight.  Many of you that I have met have so many other talents and interests that with this unexpected sequestering you have the opportunity to continue to explore what it is that makes you, well, you.  Maybe you have always wanted to learn to play that guitar you bought and sits in the corner gathering dust?  Or maybe you want to paint, draw, write (hey, look what I’m doing!), and perhaps some other activity that is not artistically related.  Whatever it is that you may enjoy outside of climbing, get into it and apply the same passion you have for this great sport.  Who knows, you might even find your calling, or at least a new source of happiness.  Now is your chance!

Stay safe.  Stay healthy.  See you in the Fall.

-Tylor Streett, is an idealist who actually is terrible at most of the things he tries, including climbing, writing, and not being hurt.  But passion and tenacity keeps him swinging punches at life.