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Crank Media Review: Dosage 2

With a name like Dosage Vol.1, you knew there’d be more, right?  Enter Dosage Vol.2.  Like the last, its made up of a series of doses that follow familiar faces to fantastic locations and sending cool stuff. Lets take a look at the doses in this installment:

So-Ill Summerized
Summer in Southern Illinois is hot.  Really hot.  So hot that boulderers are willing to get up before the sun to catch the better conditions.  By Obe Carrion’s own admission, he saw 4AM once on his way to go fishing, but usually only experiences it if he’s still up from the night before. Other faces synonymous with hard climbing in So Ill, Dave Chancellor and Jason Kehl, and Big Up regular Nate Biggie Gold are also in attendance.  If you know anything about So Ill, you know its the land of lush greens and barely there slopers, and this installment is no exception to those rules.

Psicobloc 1
Klem Loskot and Tim Emmett climb high over the sea in Spain. Yes, the giant shouting Austrian and polite British all-arounder, hurling themselves through the air.  The cliffs are stunning, and this is some of the first real Deep Water Soloing footage to make it to screens in the US.
Four from Font
Dave Graham highlights a few amazing blocs in “The Forest”, and each is beautiful in its own way:
Duel – There’s slab climbing, and then there’s Duel.  If watching climber after climber dig their literal fingernails into dime-width “crimps” sounds like it’d make you queasy…. well keep your eyes closed.  I heard a rumor Charles Albert did this barefoot recently…..
Total Eclipse – Much more my speed, big gentle holds with gratuitous shots of the greatest bouldering shoe of all times.
Le  Teilleur de Mensonges – The easiest of the four, but the crux is way up there.
Bad Dragon (FA) – if 95% of bouldering is falling, that’s a weighted average because 99% of climbing sandstone is falling….
Rumney
Joe Kinder, Luke Paraday, and Dave Graham crush it in the American North East.  This segment explores the virtues of the area, and showcases routes like Barracuda and Livin Astro. Fun fact, Dave was chomping at the bit so hard to try Livin Astro, he agreed to give the bolter, Mark Sprague, $100 to hop on it as soon as it was bolted. Mark used that money to bolt even more great lines.
Ivan, NYC
Ivan Greene was a fixture in New York climbing and the climbing fashion scene with his Khadeja brand.  He brings a fierce aggression to the activity that rivals fellow Mid-Atlantic crusher Obe Carrion – its not everyone’s cup of tea. Regardless of what you think of the man and his personalitypersona, he climbs hard and bold.  Unfortunately, this segment reads pretty cringe-worthy when viewed in a contemporary lens.
Psicobloc Part 2 
Chris Sharma and Melissa Lacasse head out to see what this DWS thing is about. Chris talks the fear and sometimes dangers inherent in DWS; while there is freedom on beautiful chalkless routes, you have to pick the right ones. We get to see his first dabbles in the playground that would eventually lead to breakthrough routes like Es Pontas, the crown jewel of its own later film.
Released in 2003, its still an “early” style film, with no overarching theme, period correct music, and great shots for the level of technology employed. I don’t think this disc packs the same punch as the first volume, lacking the highest profile first ascents, but if you have an affinity for any other areas visited or climbers highlighted it’s still worth your time.

Verdict: Borrow It. I’ll be honest, I was almost going to tell you to skip this one, but OG DG on Duel and Livin Astro is worth the price of admission.

Climbers Shown: Obe Carrion, Nate Gold, David Chancellor, Dave Graham, Luke Paraday, Joe Kinder, Klem Loskot, Tim Emmett, Miguel Riera, Isaac Caldiero, Randy Pruo, Michi Tresch, Matt Bliss, Noah Kauffman, Lee Payne, Chris Sharma, Melissa Lacasse, Ivan Greene, Jason Kehl

Routes Featured:

So Ill:
Guns and Roses
Totem pole
O.B.D.
Praying Mantle
David and Goliath
Jungle Book (FA)

Psicobloc:

All Cats are Black in the Night

Loskot and 2 Smoking Barrels

Rumney:
Barracuda
Livin Astro

NYC:
Its a Wonderful Life
Karajo
Vortex Yoga
Mercury in Retrograde
Sitdown
Venus in Scorpio