I like rare(r) DVDs.  I like Dr. Topo.  I love HP40. And, I have an undeniable climber-crush on Jason Kehl and Steven Jeffrey.  I spent years looking for a copy of Big in JapanThe HP40 Installment. One day, my wish came true, and I am proud to bring this review to you as the first of four HP40 films for this season.

Dr. Topo was the place to go for free guidebooks.  Building up the brand, they were also involved heavily in the early days of internet climbing videos.  Check out the YouTube channel to see what I was watching to get psyched when I first started bouldering.

Two things stand out about “The HP40 Installment” for me. The first, as is normal of “older” HorsePens videos, is the grades. If I could have been climbing there in 2003, I could have been sending V9 instead of lowly V7.  Sandbaggery is real! The second is the climbs featured – its not all the “hero” climbs of the area, but a good mix of the famous and the lesser known but star-worthy. The installment has four parts:  Jason Kehl on God Module, the 2003 Mortal Kombat competition, Steven Jeffrey’s adventure at HP, and Extras.  Each section has something great about it, and each is worth a watch (Millipede in Vans? What?!?).

“Big in Japan” follows Jason Kehl and company across the island, and boy is it beautiful.  Bouldering footage from Japan doesn’t make US feature films too often – hopefully with the strong surge of Japanese climbers in the IFSC Worldcup that will change soon.  Until then, this serves to showcase boulders in lush green forests and riverbeds, many of which might qualify for highball status, and even a few first ascents. The footage is unspoiled by grades, whether that’s an artistic choice or due to Japan’s peculiar grading system is unknown.  The segments do have Kehl’s trademark musical choices and media sampling overlaid, which isn’t for everyone.

Verdict: Buy It.  Not because its perfect, its not.  I’d say borrow it, but this gem is rare – if you get a chance to get a copy, take it, because you might not have a chance to see it otherwise.

The Who:
HP40 Installment:  Too many to count, but noticeable faces of Matt Bosley, Adam Traylor, and Steven Jeffrey

Big In Japan: Hiroshi Okano, Yuji Hirayama, Jason Kehl, Tokio Muroi, Shane Williams, and Ryoji

The What:

Big In Japan
Ashigakubo (Buddha Belly)
Cryptochild
Hagakure
Indora (awseom)
Kouye Higri
Yoru
Kumite
Junior High
Black Mamba
Ordinary Peoples
Never  More
Hozo
Hasami
Shiarete Inha

HP40
God Module
Cadillac Thrills
Slider Low
Sweet Spot
Hammer Head
Man with the Slow Hand
Grab Me
Sometimes
Moon Arete
Popeye
Slabolicous
Stingray
Short Long (V8)
Skywalker
Thief (V9! Ha!)
Ghetto Superstar (V9)
Stepchild (V8!)
Chevy (V8)
Consumption (V8)
American Pie (V8)
Law Dog

Sumatunga:
Melodram

Rocktown:
Orb
Vagina