Let me first start by explaining what Strength Endurance actually is.  Breaking it down, strength is the ability and level at which one can apply force.  Endurance is the ability to supply energy over a period of time.  Simply put, strength endurance it is the ability to apply the same amount of force over a given period of time.  It is often confused with power endurance, but that phrase is actually a misnomer.  Power is a metric of the amount of force that can be produced in a single movement or action (power=strength*speed).  As a simple comparison for how these things are measured, let’s look at electricity where endurance equals amperage (amps), strength equals voltage (volts), and power equals watts:

“Amperage (amps for short) is a measure of the AMOUNT of electricity used. Voltage (volts) measures the pressure, or FORCE, of electricity. The amps multiplied by the volts gives you the wattage (watts), a measure of the WORK that electricity does per second.”

Increasing your strength and your endurance will increase you power, but increasing your power does nothing to increase your actual strength.  It is kind like how Trunks increased his power but did not have the strength, speed, or endurance to beat Perfect Cell.  It looked cool, but it was hollow and lacked substance.  A guidebook of your choice to the first person who gets the above reference in the comments section.

Build from the bottom, not from the top, and in the end, nothing can stop…
…you (glad I didn’t follow my freestyle rapping dreams)

Strength Endurance:

Finally, we are getting to something you all should be familiar with as a training device.  As stated, strength endurance is the ability to apply force over an extended period of time.  This is the perfect place to use the classic 4×4 training exercise.  Essentially, you pick four (4) problems or routes and do each one four (4) times in a row with no rest in between.  Once the first problem/route has been done four (4) times, rest for four minutes (or the appropriate 4-min ratio) before proceeding to the next problem/route.  This training technique forces you find the most efficient way through the movement and trains the mental aspect of being able to pull while physically exhausted and possibly scared high of above your bolt.  If you fail during the set of four attempts, you can be allowed one do-over.  Drop down to the ground, chalk-up and pull right back on.  If you fail a second time, then the set is finished and your rest period starts.  This one is made to hurt, but in the good way, so practice your mental strength and push through it.  Shake, massage, and actively stretch as necessary during the rest period to increase blood flow and get as much back as you can before the next set.

When it comes to bouldering, I try to select two problems on relatively vertical areas and two problems on overhung areas and then alternate between the two.  This allows me to work different areas of my strength and skill while not burning out my shoulders and over-training my lats.  Sometimes I have to make a concession based on the crowd, but this is my goal each time.  Be sure to inform other interested parties at your chosen feature that you intend to complete a 4×4 so that no one snakes your wall after you drop and disrupts the rhythm.  I usually strap on a chalk bag so that I can chalk up on route rather than wasting time on the ground.

Week	Grade	Problems	Cadence	Rest
1	75%	4	Controlled	240 sec./4 min
2	80%	4	Controlled	240 sec.
3	80%	4	Controlled	240 sec.
4	85%	4	Controlled	240 sec.

For routes, select one from each major feature type; slab, arete (or fin), dihedral (or corner), vertical, overhung, and/or crack (where applicable).  Rather than the familiar 4×4 we used in bouldering, I suggest a different exercise, a route modification of the Spanish Triple.  For the first burn, lead the route.  In the second burn, tie in to the other end of the rope and clean the route.  For the third and final burn, stay tied in and top-rope the route.  This gives you three burns on a route and takes up way less time overall than having to pull the rope, re-stack, and re-tie after each burn thereby maximizing time on the wall equaling more stress and gains for the body.  The bouldering 4×4 give you 16 tops and the modified Spanish Triple gives you 15 tops, so it works out pretty close.  If you are not leading yet, guess what, you get to do do standard 4×4 just like in bouldering.  Your only chances to rest are wither on-route or while your belayer is lowering you.  Chalk up on the way down because once you hit the dirt you should be pulling right back on.

Week	Grade	Routes	Cadence	Rest
1	75%	5	Controlled	480-720 sec./ 8-12 min.
2	80%	5	Controlled	480-720 sec.
3	80%	5	Controlled	480-720 sec.
4	85%	5	Controlled	480-720 sec.

There are some similarities to the Climbing workout where the same move is rehearsed over and over again, and then is also similar to the Conditioning workout where two slightly different exercises are used to train the same muscle groups.  The exercise is known to many as “up-downs.”  Select a rung and start matched at the limit of your reach from the floor so that your movement can be free of the ground.  Pull to the next rung, pause to establish control, and then come back down to the starting position.  Repeat for the listed number of repetitions.  Do not dismount until both hands have completed the number of pulls.  After the rest period, use the same starting position, but instead descend the campus board to the specified rung and then return back to the starting position.  The following exercise selections should be used based on your previous analysis of your ability:

0-4 Pull-ups:
If you are in this category, then continue with the hangs from the previous Stage, but move up to next most difficult.  To help you remember, the list is provided below:

Dead Hang
Flex Hang
90 degree Hang
L-Hang
90 degree L-Hang
Jump to Lowers
Assisted Pull-ups

Week	Sets	Hangs	Cadence	Rest
1	5	4/5	Controlled	40/50 sec.
2	5	6/7	Controlled	60/70 sec.
3	5	8/9	Controlled	80/90 sec.
4	5	10/10	Controlled	100 sec.

*Hold the position for 5 seconds, rest for 5 seconds.  Full Rest between each set, or hand position is an additional 10 seconds for every hang in one set.

4-10 Pull-ups:
Looking at the number of pulls, you may feel like this is a step back, but actually, because you do not dismount between changing hands, the number of pulls works out.  This exercise is also more difficult because of the constant change in direction of pull.  There are ten (10) total sets, five (5) doing “up-downs” or going up the board, and five (5) leading doing the opposite, or “down-ups.  There are several stages for the sets based on your campus ability (and reach):

Singles only
Single, Double, Single, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple, Double, Single

Week	Sets	Pulls	Cadence	Rest
1	10	3 each hand	Controlled	90 sec.
2	10	4 each hand	Controlled	120 sec.
3	10	4 each hand	Controlled	120 sec.
4	10	5 each hand	Controlled	180 sec.

*Full Rest between each set is now a standardized time for campus training practices, 60 second between each leading hand and a full rest between each true set (right and left leading).

If you still can not campus or do not have access to a campus board, then continue with the exercises from the previous Stage by moving to the next most difficult type of pull-up.  The list is provided below:

Jump to Lowers
Assisted Pull-ups
Pull-ups
L-hang Pull-ups
4/2/1 Pull-ups

10+ Pull-ups:
This is similar to the previous ability level, except instead of returning to the start hold after each move, you will pull through the full range of motion both up and down before returning to the start hold.  Again, there is a total of ten (10) sets, meaning five (5) for each leading hand, which flows as such (assuming for 3 pulls): “match start – up – down – up – down – up – down – match start.”  If you really are advanced, make it five (5) sets and once you match at the final move, begin the leading with the other hand.  The increasing difficulties are listed below:

Singles only
Single, Double w/start match, Single, Double w/match, Single
Single, Double, Single, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple w/ start match, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple, Double, Single
Add Weight (any of the above)

*Full Rest between each set is now a standardized time for campus training practices, 60 second between each leading hand and a full rest between each true set (right and left leading).

If you still can not campus or do not have access to a campus board, then continue with the exercises from the previous Stage by moving to the next most difficult type of pull-up.  Rest remains at twenty (20) seconds per move.  The list is provided below:

Pull-ups
L-hang Pull-ups
4/2/1 Pull-ups
Off-set Pull-ups
Frenchies
Weighted Pull-ups (and all others)

The exercises we used in the Endurance Stage started increasing our strength and active engagement of the Core.  The exercises listed below are the natural progressions of the ones listed in the previous Stage.  It is suggested that what ever you started with in Stage 2, you would continue with in the following stages as the similar exercise increase in difficulty.  As such, the number of sets, repetitions, and cadence follows the same suit as the previous Stage.

Swiss Ball Long Lever Crunch
Hanging Leg Lifts
Back Extension, hands behind head
Cable Chop

Single-leg Touchdown*
Single-leg Romanian Dipping Bird*
Lunge to Balance, Frontal Pane
Step-up to Balance, Frontal Pane

*Increase difficulty by using the following; a board, a foam pad, DynaDisc, or half foam roll.

Repeat Butt Kicks
Repeat Squat Jump, Sagittal Plane (Forward/Backward)
Repeat Squat Jump, Frontal Plane (Left/Right)
Repeat Squat Jump, Transverse Plane (90 degree rotation)

Core Workout – Conditioning	Resistance	Sets	Reps	Cadence	Rest
Core Activation: Swiss Ball Long Lever Crunch	Body Weight	2 2 3 4	12 12 10 8	2/2	0 sec.
Balance: Lunge to Balance, Frontal Pane	Body Weight	2 2 3 4	12 12 10 8	4/2/1	0 sec,
Plyometrics: Repeat Squat Jump, Frontal Plane	Body Weight	2 3 3 4	8 8 10 12	Repeating	60 sec.

In the Cardio Characteristic, we will continue building on the interval training from the previous Stage.  We ended Stage 2 with the intervals on an even split between 75% effort and 85% effort, or race pace and passing pace respectively.  Through this Stage we are looking to get more comfortable with the passing pace until it becomes a pace during which we can actively recover.  This is important for the next two stages where we will be adding sprinting to the mix.

Week	Resistance	Interval Training
1 (32 mins)	65-85%	1-min walk, 2-min (65%) 3 x [(1.5-min (75%), 2.5-min (85%)] 2-min (65%) 3 x [1.5-min (75%), 2.5-min (85%)] 1-min (65%), 2-min walk
2 (32 mins)	65-85%	1-min walk, 2-min (65%) 3 x [1-min (75%), 3-min (85%)] 2-min (65%) 3 x [3-min (75%), 1-min (85%)] 1-min (65%), 2-min walk
3 (32 mins)	65-85%	1-min walk, 2-min (65%) 3 x [0.5-min (75%), 3.5-min (85%)] 2-min (65%) 3 x [0.5-min (75%), 3.5-min (85%)] 1-min (65%), 2-min walk
4 (32 mins)	65-85%	1-min walk, 2-min (65%) 12-min (85%) 2-min (65%) 12-min (85%) 1-min (65%), 2-min walk

Remember, this is how you find your Target Heart Rate:

220 – (your age) = Maximum [Effective] Heart Rate (Max. HR)

Then,

Max. HR x 0.65 = 65% HR

Max. HR x 0.75 = 75% HR
Max. HR x 0.85 = 85% HR

The Conditioning for this Stage uses the super-set method, but also allows for rest between the exercises in the same muscle group.  For instance, you perform a barbell back squat, rest for the allotted time, and then perform a barbell front squat to make one set.  In this Stage it is also important to use what is known as horizontal loading.  This means that all sets are completed for a particular muscle group before moving on to the next muscle group.  The inverse of horizontal loading is called vertical loading where we work the first set of every exercise and then cycle back for the second set.  The horizontal loading structure builds maximum endurance for each muscle group, which is why it is preferred.  I use horizontal loading in Stages 2 and 3 but I use vertical loading in Stages 1, 4, and 5

As as the exercises for this Stages are concerned, we want to keep building with the first exercise from Stage 2 rather than selecting a new one.  This helps to promote real muscle improvement instead of constantly switching around.  We will cover the idea behind muscle confusion later.  If the first exercise is the same, then my preferred notion is to use a similar exercise to the first as our second exercise.  First, because it limits muscle confusion, and second, because it saves time and equipment since the rest period is so short and equipment is a limited resource.  ti does not make sense to set up to squat and deadlift, too much equipment usage and radically different exercises.  It does make sense to set up a barbell squat and dumbbell goblet squat; they are similar movements but load the body from both the front and the back, plus you are not an equipment hog.

Notes for the body position for six exercises are detailed below.

Barbell Bench Press (strength 1)
-Same as previous Stage

Dumbbell Incline Press (strength 2)
-Spine, pelvis, and head fully supported by bench
-Knees bent at 90 degrees or slightly less, hips bent between 30 and 45 degrees
-Feet in full contact with the floor, engage through the heels
-Lower dumbbells to end above the collar bone
-Push dumbbells straight towards the ceiling to end above the collar bone
-Upper arm tracks roughly 45 degrees from the shoulder and ends just below the spine
-Wrists are also allowed to rotate to a “thumbs-up” position when down, press out like throwing a punch

Seated Dumbbell Overhead Press (strength 1)
-Same as previous Stage

Standing Dumbbell Scaption (strength 2)
-Feet place shoulder width apart
-Knees straight but not locked
-Shoulders pulled back and down so that scapula (shoulder blade) is flat against ribs
-Feet in full contact with the floor, engage through the heels
-Raise arms up just passed parallel to the ground with thumbs pointed up
-Arm track from parallel to spine while down and to 45 degrees from the spine while up

Legs
Barbell Back Squat (strength 1)
-Same as previous Stage