Good Luck!
Endurance:
For bouldering, just like in the Technique Stage, climb a super-set on each feature in your bouldering cave, if possible. If the quantity or problem density does not allow, then repeat problems as necessary to fill in the gaps. As you get ready for your set, it is polite to let anyone else eyeing up the same section that you are training and intend to complete two problems. This helps to eliminate the chance of someone starting once you drop off or climbing over your intended second problem. Typically, I try to work a pattern across the cave, but on really busy days this pattern might break and you will have to climb in the free space. Again, just be polite and be safe.
Week
|
Grade
|
Problems
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
Strength – 70%
Endurance – 60% |
5-8
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
60-90 sec.
|
2
|
Strength – 75%
Endurance – 65% |
5-8
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
60-90 sec.
|
3
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 65% |
5-8
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
60-90 sec.
|
4
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 70% |
5-8
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
60-90 sec.
|
For routes, continue training on one route for each of the following terrains: slab, arete (or fin), dihedral (or corner), vertical, overhung, and/or cracks (where applicable). The rest period on routes starts to get a little fuzzy with the expectation that you are not the only person in the gym and may have to wait for a line to open up, and/or your partner may take longer doing their set than the time allotted. That is OK! As with the grade suggestion, this is merely a guideline and can not always be met through no fault of your own. Do your best to snag routes when they open and tie-in quickly (but safely) and hopefully your strength and endurance routes are on the same line. If you are lead climbing, you can make your best judgement whether you want to pull your rope after the first route and lead again or to clean it as a top-rope for your second route of the set. Sometimes, I also make exceptions here on busy days allowing for the endurance route to be within the range of 60-70% to complete the intended super-set without waiting for lines to open up or hold up my partner’s training as well. The route set(s) will look like this:
Week
|
Grade
|
Routes
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
Strength – 70%
Endurance – 60% |
5
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
180-270 sec.
|
2
|
Strength – 75%
Endurance – 65% |
5
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
180-270 sec.
|
3
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 65% |
5
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
180-270 sec.
|
4
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 70% |
5
|
Strength – Control
Endurance – 3-sec. |
180-270 sec.
|
0-4 Pull-ups:
If you are in this category, then continue with the hangs from the previous Stage, but move up to next most difficult. To help you remember, the list is provided below:
Dead Hang
Flex Hang
90 degree Hang
L-Hang
90 degree L-Hang
Jump to Lowers
Assisted Pull-ups
Week
|
Sets
|
Hangs
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
5
|
4/5
|
Controlled
|
40/50 sec.
|
2
|
5
|
6/7
|
Controlled
|
60/70 sec.
|
3
|
5
|
8/9
|
Controlled
|
80/90 sec.
|
4
|
5
|
10/10
|
Controlled
|
100 sec.
|
*Hold the position for 5 seconds, rest for 5 seconds. Full Rest between each set, or hand position is an additional 10 seconds for every hang in one set.
4-10 Pull-ups:
We are now moving into working on the actual campus board. If you are in this strength category then all of the work will be done by moving up the board one hand at a time. In other words, if you start by leading with your right hand, then the left hand will match on the same rung, and then lead with the right hand again to next rung. This time there are ten (10) total sets, five (5) leading with the right hand and five (5) leading with the left hand, alternating between each. There are several stages for the sets based on your campus ability (and reach):
Singles only
Single, Double, Single, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple, Double, Single
Once you do the required number of pulls, drop down and perform one of the following hangs for ten seconds on the same type of rung:
Dead Hang
Full Flex Hang
90 degree Hang
L-Hang
90 degree L-Hang
Week
|
Sets
|
Rungs
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
10
|
4
|
Controlled
|
60/90 sec.
|
2
|
10
|
6
|
Controlled
|
60/120 sec.
|
3
|
10
|
8
|
Controlled
|
60/150 sec.
|
4
|
10
|
10
|
Controlled
|
60/180 sec.
|
If you still can not campus or do not have access to a campus board, then continue with the exercises from the previous Stage by moving to the next most difficult type of pull-up. The list is provided below:
Jump to Lowers
Assisted Pull-ups
Pull-ups
L-hang Pull-ups
4/2/1 Pull-ups
10+ Pull-ups:
This is similar to the previous ability level, except instead of matching after each move, you will pull through hand-over-hand up the rungs, or even some combination of the two. Again, there is a total of ten (10) sets with five (5) each leading with the right hand and five (5) each leading with the left hand. The increasing difficulties are listed below:
Singles only
Single, Double w/match, Single, Double w/match, Single
Single, Double, Single, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple w/ match, Double, Single
Single, Double, Triple, Double, Single
Add Weight (any of the above)
Once you do the required number of pulls, drop down and perform one of the following hangs for ten seconds on the same type of rung:
Dead Hang
Flex Hang
90 degree Hang
L-Hang
90 degree L-Hang
Week
|
Sets
|
Hangs
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
10
|
6
|
Controlled
|
60/120 sec.
|
2
|
10
|
8
|
Controlled
|
60/150 sec.
|
3
|
10
|
10
|
Controlled
|
60/180 sec.
|
4
|
10
|
10
|
Controlled
|
60/180 sec.
|
*Full Rest between each set is now a standardized time for campus training practices, 60 second between each leading hand and a full rest between each true set (right and left leading).
If you still can not campus or do not have access to a campus board, then continue with the exercises from the previous Stage by moving to the next most difficult type of pull-up. The list is provided below:
Pull-ups
L-hang Pull-ups
4/2/1 Pull-ups
Off-set Pull-ups
Frenchies
Weighted Pull-ups (and all others)
As I said before, if your gym does not have a campus board but you have access to a pull up bar then you can select the next most difficult exercise for strength and one of the hangs for stability. Rest will be ten seconds for each move made.
Core Activation:
Hanging Crunch
Back Extension
Cable Rotation
Single-leg Romanian Deadlift*
Lunge to Balance, Sagittal Pane
Step-up to Balance, Sagittal Pane
Repeat Squat Jump, Sagittal Plane (Forward/Backward)
Repeat Squat Jump, Frontal Plane (Left/Right)
Repeat Squat Jump, Transverse Plane (90 degree rotation)
Core Workout – Climbing
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Reps
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
Body Weight
|
2
2
3
4
|
12
12
10
8
|
2/2
|
0 sec.
|
|
Balance:
|
Body Weight
|
2
2
3
4
|
12
12
10
8
|
4/2/1
|
0 sec,
|
Plyometrics:
|
Body Weight
|
2
3
3
4
|
8
8
10
12
|
Repeating
|
60 sec.
|
Core Workout – Conditioning
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Reps
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
Body Weight
|
2
2
3
4
|
12
12
10
8
|
2/2
|
0 sec.
|
|
Balance:
|
Body Weight
|
2
2
3
4
|
12
12
10
8
|
4/2/1
|
0 sec,
|
Plyometrics:
|
Body Weight
|
2
3
3
4
|
8
8
10
12
|
Repeating
|
60 sec.
|
Week
|
Resistance
|
Interval Training
|
1
(32 mins) |
65-85%
|
1-min walk, 2-min (65%)
3 x [(3.5-min (75%), 0.5-min (85%)]
2-min (65%)
3 x [2.5-min (75%), 0.5-min (85%)]
1-min (65%), 2-min walk
|
2
(32 mins) |
65-85%
|
1-min walk, 2-min (65%)
3 x [3-min (75%), 1-min (85%)]
1-min (65%)
3 x [3-min (75%), 1-min (85%)]
1-min (65%), 2-min walk
|
3
(32 mins) |
65-85%
|
1-min walk, 2-min (65%)
3 x [2.5-min (75%), 1.5-min (85%)]
1-min (65%)
3 x [2.5-min (75%), 1.5-min (85%)]
1-min (65%), 2-min walk
|
4
(32 mins) |
65-85%
|
1-min walk, 2-min (65%)
3 x [2-min (75%), 2-min (85%)]
1-min (65%)
3 x [2-min (75%), 2-min (85%)]
1-min (65%), 2-min walk
|
Remember, this is how you find your Target Heart Rate:
Max. HR x 0.85 = 85% HR
Notes for the body position for six exercises are detailed below.
Chest
-Spine, pelvis, and head fully supported by bench
-Knees bent at 90 degrees or slightly less
-Feet in full contact with the floor, engage through the heels
-Hands on bar with thumbs at shoulder width apart
-Lower bar to end between collar bone and nipples on the chest
-Upper arm tracks roughly 45 degrees from the shoulder and ends just below the spine
Swiss Ball Push-up (endurance)
-Hands on ball shoulder width apart
-Fingers are rotated 45 degrees out from forward to grip the ball
-Hands hit the chest between nipples and bottom of the rib cage
-Elbow tracks roughly 45 degrees from shoulder
-Spine stays flat and in line
-Add resistance through a weight vest or by elevating the feet
-Spine, pelvis, and neck fully supported by bench
-Knees bent at 90 degrees or slightly less
-Feet in full contact with the floor, engage through the heels
-Elbows pass below shoulders so scapula (shoulder blade) is flattened against the rib cage
-Bring hands together when overhead
Single-leg Scaption
-Maintain a straight and vertical spine
-Arms start at your side with thumbs pointing forward
-Raise arms up just passed parallel to the ground with thumbs pointed up
-Arm track from parallel to spine while down and to 45 degrees from the spine while up
-Stand out of the hip with a straight but unlocked knee
Barbell Back Squat (strength)
-Bar sits on top of the trapezius at the base of the neck
-Heels are shoulder width with toes turned slightly out
-Lead the motion with your pelvis as if you are sitting in a chair
-Knees track over the second toe
-Keep the head up and spine straight
-Imagine a vertical line from your ankle through the thigh to the bar. Maintain that line
-Push through the heels and push the hips forward
BOSU Ball Squat (endurance)
-All same body position notes
-Add weight through dumbbells only!
Week
|
Resistance
|
Sets
|
Repetitions
|
Cadence
|
Rest
|
1
|
Strength – 70%
Endurance – 60% |
2
|
12
|
2/2
4-2-1 |
60-90 sec.
|
2
|
Strength – 75%
Endurance – 60% |
3
|
10
|
2/2
4-2-1 |
60-90 sec.
|
3
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 60% |
3
|
8
|
2/2
4-2-1 |
60-90 sec.
|
4
|
Strength – 80%
Endurance – 60% |
4
|
8
|
2/2
4-2-1 |
60-90 sec.
|
These additional strength exercises will be detailed in the full print version, though many of the notes are similar with regard to body position and focus points:
Chest:
-Incline Barbell Chest Press
-Dumbbell Bench Press
-Incline Dumbbell Bench Press
-Cable Chest Press
Shoulders:
-Barbell Overhead Press
-Dumbbell Lateral Raise
-Dumbbell Shoulder Scaption
-Cable Overhead Press
Legs:
-Barbell Front Squat
-Dumbbell Squat
-Deadlift
-Cable Squat
Care
Carbohydrates = 50-65% Daily Caloric Intake
Protein = 20-30% Daily Caloric Intake
Healthy Fat = 15-20% Daily Caloric Intake
Again, this is just general rules of thumb and should be used as guidelines. The body can create roughly 4 calories per gram of carbohydrates meaning that for a 2500 calorie diet you need between 315 and 400 grams of carbohydrates. To help gain this many grams of carbs it is best to spread your eating through out the day to keep a more even blood glucose level throughout the day so that you don’t have major peaks and valleys in your energy. To make it more complicated, energy absorption rates vary based on the type of carbohydrates being being ingested. To compare two breakfast favorites, donuts against bran muffins, both with roughly the same number of carbs (32g) for a similar amount weight (100g), and if we are ignore fat for the time being, the donut has between 12 and 16 grams of sugar, which is a carb, against the 5 grams of sugar in the muffin. That sudden energy you feel from the donut is the simple sugar being used quickly by the body but you soon find your self hungry and crashing as the energy is used up. On the other side with the bran muffin, the complex whole grains take time to break down in the body giving you a much more sated feeling along with more sustained energy. These varying rates of absorption are what we call the Glycemic Index. Foods high on the list absorb quickly and are gone quickly whereas food low on the list absorb slowly and stay longer. The ideal is to eat more foods with a low index for sustained energy and only eat foods with a high index when you need a bump. On training days, about 30-60 minutes before working out, I drink a small can of pineapple juice (high) to give me that jump start since it’s usually after a long day of work. i also take in some kind of complex bar, such as a CLIF Bar (relatively low), for that long burn to last through the training sets.
Here’s a pretty chart |
And here is something not a pretty, but a little more detailed |