You know, Ireally thought I had this one wrapped up in time, but then after the holiday weekend I found that we had lost three more of our own in the final days of the year to a variety of circumstances, and of course, Alex Megos kept us waiting until the dying light of the year with another 5.15 send. That’s 25% of the entries on this list! As with all things at the end of a year, we tend to get a little pensive about out past and future when we stand on the threshold. You never know what moment might be your last whether here on earth or on a project. What ever you do, make every effort you can to clip the chains and you will live a life without regret.
Hot Sends
Simon Parton – Terremer (V15):
This Fred Nicole test piece in Hueco Tanks has seen only its fifth ascent, and it also marks the second Canadian to climb the grade. Parton seems to be excelling at this style of crimping overhangs, sending this baby on his first day out.
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Jimmy Webb – The Matriarch (V15):
Guess what folks, there is a confirmed V15 in the Southeast! After spending November putting up three (3) new V14’s down South , one in Boone, NC and two in Chattanooga, TN, Jimmy Webb cleaned and put down the hardest line to date at Rocktown, GA. A massive roof covered with charcoal graffiti that had to be cleaned (and re-cleaned during the weeks from new “art”) has a straight forward and powerful style. Jimmy’s biggest gripe? That even after he cleaned it once, he found fresh graffiti upon returning which means that clearly climbers are to blame as it was done via brush tied to a stick. Still, very impressive for both the cleaning effort and the send.
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Ashima Shiraishi – Phenomena (V14):
Ashima was on a trip to Japan over Christmas break and decided to dabble in a little climbing expedition. Not long, less than an hour even, you know, just for fun. Then she came away with the second ascent of Dia Koyamada’s Phenomena in 30 minutes. Phenomena indeed, this is unprecedented for even the most gifted athletes in our sport. Imagine when she is all grown up! She could easily be the best in the world.
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Jonathan Siegrist – Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b):
JS spent two months in Oliana, Spain earlier in 2015 and returned for six more weeks over the holidays. He finished his trip with his first flash at 5.14b on Fish Eye, American Hustle (5.14b), Mind Control (5.14b) and Blanquita (5.14c) on his second try each, and a flash of Gorilla en la Niebla (5.14a). Red-point projects included two more 5.15a’s for the American hardman including Papichulo and Power Inverter.
Alex Megos – First Round, First Minute (5.15b):
In true Megos style, he snagged the finish hold of First Round, First Minute on his last go of 2015 making it his hardest send to date. Then, not wanting 2016 to feel bad, he fired off First Ley (5.15a) and the first ascent of La Ley Indignata (5.14d) the next morning. To cap off his New Year’s weekend, he also claimed the another first ascent on Hostia no PUC (5.14c), giving it a 14c.
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Calls to Action
Donner Summit Saved:
Only eight months after launching the campaign, Donner Summit, near Truckee, CA, has been acquired thanks to the help of local climbers, Planet Granite Climbing Gym, Touchstone Climbing Gym, and the Access Fund. Over $300,000 was raised to purchase the land and establish basic management protocols. I am never more amazed at our ability to work together as I am when we all work to protect our natural areas. Way to go!
Land and Water Conservation Fund:
In September, the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) expired and after many letters and phone calls we actually made an impact. The LWCF was used to help protect natural areas, improve safety, trails, and access to cliffs and rivers for the last 50 years. The bill almost didn’t get passed, but then it got included in the Omnibus bill at the last second. The Fund was re-instated for 3 years with $450 million, a far cry from the “indefinite” goal we had in mind, but progress is still progress.
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Local Events
Friends of Governor Stable – Meltdown Comp:
December 19th – This comp marks the start of the season in Governor’s Stable, PA. In the past, it has always happened in January, but thanks to a lot of negotiations with landowners, we have been able to move the comp to the first weekend after the end of deer hunting season. This gives us two more weeks of climbing at GS! Check the results below!
Results
Crank Candy
Young Savages:
This beautiful coffee table book came out a little late for Christmas, but it still makes wonderful gift. Austrian photographer Claudia Ziegler interviews thirteen of climbing’s best athletes and how they are pushing the sport forward in their own way. Grab a copy and amaze your friends with the world with which we surround ourselves.
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Community Losses
We have lost quite a few people in 2015, but December has been important because the people we lost were activist in the highest form. Great minds, outstanding personalities, and a large influence for both those close to them and for the climbing community and world community. We all felt their loss in some way and there are several torches that need picking up.
Doug Tompkins:
The founder of Patagonia was pronounced dead on arrival by hypothermia while kayaking in Chile on December 8th. He was recovered after a capsize with his tandem kayak partner with a core temperature of 66.2 degrees and the rescue aprty was not able to get his temperature up passed 71.6 before losing him. He had spent many ours in water that was 4 degrees Celsius. Doug, a co-founder of The North Face and founder of ESPIRIT, later Patagonia, along with his second wife Kris, had purchased 2 million acres in the Patagonia region of Argentina with the intent of setting up a conservation area. It is said that through his six non-profit foundations that he has done more than any other private citizen for the efforts of conservation and land management. An avid mountaineer, climber, skier, and paddler with first ascents in the some of the most remote areas of the world, Doug was a life-long steward of every place he visited. He was 72.
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Jennifer “Kayah” Gaydish:
North Carolina climber Kayah Gaydish fell 50 feet from the anchors at Hidden Valley, VA on December 20th resulting in her death. The cause was simple human error while trying to rig a rappel on a sport route. She apparently was having difficulty running the rope through the anchors and asked to be put back on belay from being in direct, but forgot to retie her knot, having it only clipped to her gear loop. A former Linville Gorge Wilderness Ranger, a member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) and the current North Carolina Conservation Coordinator for the conservation group Wild South, she was a giver and friend to everyone and everything in her area. A fund for her husband and children has been set up and you can donate by clicking the link below. Kayah was 36.
John Ellison:
After receiving a serious cancer diagnosis in 2011, John Ellison set up a foundation to fight for people in his situation. Ellison, a long time competitor turned judge of many international events was a universal point for many in the European competition circuit. Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) has collected millions to be put towards cancer research by having big name climbers wear their shirts at big events. In 2013, he was given the Golden Piton Award by Climbing Magazine for his efforts. On December 24th, he was admitted to the hospital where he was taken off his life saving treatment to pass away three days later. In lieu of flowers, mourners have been asked to donate to the organization he founded and continued to support to his last breath. John was 52.
Ryan Jennings:
Two-time Muggs Stump recipient Ryan Jennings was found on December 30th at the bottom of a collapsed column of ice in Crystal River Valley, CO. He had been rope-soloing up the free standing pillars near the Redstone Slabs when the rarely form second tower cracked and crashed down taking Ryan with it. With numerous bold first ascents under his belt and even having done everything right, things still went wrong. In 2003 he was awarded a Muggs Stump Award to put up Stairway to Heaven (Alaska 6, A1, M6, WI4, A5+) on Mount Johnson, Alaska with Kevin Cooper. Earlier in December, it had been announced he was to receive a second Muggs Stump Award to tackle the West Face of Middle Triple Peak, the Kichatnas, Alaska with partner Kevin Cooper. He was a visionary, a pioneer, and supreme mixed athlete while still being an award winning realtor and family man back home. He was 42.
Doug Walker:
The current American Alpine Club (AAC) President was found New Years Day having been swept away in an avalanche the previous night while snowshoeing on Granite Mountain near Seattle, WA. Perhaps the most talkative and animated man in the field with a diverse background and interests there was never any stopping him. A love for Shakespearean quotes, the American Civil War, World War II, and geography kept him quizzing you for hours. His passion for the outdoors was no less having been born in South Carolina, trekking all over North America to finally fall in love with the Northwest and settle down. He made a fortune with a software company in the 1980’s and then turned to conservation working with a host of agencies including the Sierra Club, the Wilderness Society, the Conservation Lands Fund, along with serving as chairman for REI. He also had a had in cancer research, serving on many other medical boards. A memorial fund has been set up through the AAC and you can donate via the link below. He was 65.
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Coming Attractions
PRG Valley – Winter Burn:
If you went to PRG’s Midnight Burn in October, then you will love the Winter Burn. In a bigger gym with a serious top-out boulder called the Gravitron and plenty of spectator space, get ready for a heated battle in the middle of winter. The second stop for the Burn series is fast approaching so get your head in the game.