Hot Sends
July got off to a slow start but everyone seemed to get in on the action in the final week. I suspect it was because of Friday’s approaching Blue Moon changing the gravity.
He Chuan – Climb Like You Are Dying (VI A3- 5.10+ R):
An incredible 8-day rope solo and first ascent of the iconic South Peak of Mt. Huashan in China. The mountain is best known to the “World’s Most Dangerous Hiking Trail,” that one via ferrata of wood planks that lead to a Taoist temple just below the summit. Chuan stated at the summit “everyone can find their own King Line, no matter how hard the line is.” Ain’t that the truth?
Leo Houlding, Joe Mohle, Matt Pickles, Matt Pycroft, and Waldo Etherington – Mirror Wall, Greenland:
The British team was taken in by helicopter and made their way over the Edward Bailey glacier to the base of the daunting 4,000-foot Mirror Wall. Twenty-three pitches of free climbing and two aide pitches brought them to the summit for the first ascent in the middle of a snowstorm. The team took a few minutes to celebrate but made a quick decent as conditions grew worse. Their route is currently ungraded.
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Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm – Silvretta, Austria (V11-V14):
The gravity was definitely turned way down for German power couple Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer. A day at Silvretta, Austria. Wurm sent her first V13, Charity Bouldern, along with three more V11’s made her day. Hojer sent Momento (V14), flashed Golden Gate (V13) and Freerunner (V12), plus another V13 and three more V11’s. Total V-points for the couple in a day came to 131 and it was all caught on video. Posts have already gone up of Jule’s send of Charity Bouldern (see the link below)
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Charity Bouldern Video
Adam Ondra – Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d?):
Eight years after Chris Sharma put up the route, it has finally seen a second ascent and possibly an upgrade. Characterized by three massive dynos to good with 8c climbing in between, this might be the real test piece of Ceuse, France. Plenty of strong climbers have attempted the line in powerhouse Alex Megos and super stud Jonathan Siegrist, but to no avail. Ondra even recommended an upgrade to 5.15a/9a+ saying that it was the hardest route in the area (yes, harder that Realization/Biographie) hence the question mark above.
Calls to Action
Save the Homestead, AZ:
The Homestead in central Arizona is a unique gem in a state usually known for its northern region’s red sandstone. Classic European style limestone tufas rule the area but access has been comprised. The access road crosses a piece of private property that has been closed and now blocks entrance to an otherwise open area. Donate to the Access Fund to help purchase access to this one-of-a-kind area!
Donate
Local Events
Earth Treks Summer Smackdown Finals:
July 18th – From what I heard, it was pretty rad. This author was planning to go watch the party until he got rear-ended the day before and was having back spasms that put him down faster than the opening moves of Men’s #3. There were plenty of lights and sick tunes from the short videos I watched and I understand all in attendance had a great time and some were wondering why ET ever stopped having comps like this. All in all, great event and we should do this for every season!
Results
PRG Sunburn:
July 25th – Who got burned and who did the burning? My forearms. Five disciples (routes, bouldering, slab, topout, and dyno) in five hours in three categories we were all feeling a bit, well, burned by the end. Luckily, there was an immediate cure; the old 12 oz. ice pack known as Sly Fox beer. This is also the best finals show for any competition because the last problem is 45 foot sport route. Crank Climbing Team member Tylor Streett placed 1st overall in Men’s Advanced and Cranlk Climbing supporters Eric Jerome and Stephanie Carras placed 5th and 7th respectively in Open finals. Full results are in the link below.
Results
Crank Candy
Erica Mays Design:
I have two pieces of candy from this month, first up is the very talented Erica Mays who took the plunge and started her own design company. A Baltimore local and MICA (Maryland Institute College of Art) graduate, you know that you are getting quality and dedication. Her first piece of work for us was our new logo during her freelance phase, and now we have our new Crank Climbing Team shirt. Need so graphic work done? Live in or around Baltimore? She does logos, shirts, flyers, formal events, what ever you want for your private and corporate needs. Support this local artist and you will not be disappointed, I guarantee it.
Check Her Out!
Like Her on Facebook too!
Holy Ten Sleep:
Have you ever held guidebook and thought how great it is? What about how great it could be? We did a paper guide in 2012 for Rocks State Park bouldering and that was enough effort, but this guide is the absolute pinnacle of art and information. The book is leather bound with embossed gold lettering, sewn in book mark, and rounded page corners. Sound familiar, almost Bible-esque? That’s because it is and that’s not even the best part; the images are in 3-D! Yes, your own set of 3-D glasses are stored in the back flap for a serious look at the route you are about pull on. Aaron Huey has taken guidebook writing and publishing to next level and this piece is worth every cent, even if you never use it. Limited copies are available, so pick on up quick!
Community Losses
Dick Bass:
Sad news broke when the Seven Summits pioneer passed away on July 26th at the age of 85 from pulmonary fibrosis. His vision of an ascent of the highest peak on each continent sparked a revolution and a rivalry in the world of high altitude mountaineering. There will always be debate which peak to count in Oceania/Australia, Kosciuszko (Bass and Wells) in Australia or Puncak Jaya in Indonesia, but is a argument still raging. Noted guide David Breshears said that he was amazed with Bass’s physical ability on the mountain when he never even trained for the expeditions but could out climb many of the crew. He is survived by his wife and four children and will always be an inspiration to future generations by setting the bar three decades ago.
Coming Attractions
Psicobloc Masters:
August 5-7 – A deep water solo competition in America! Watch the best climbers in the world go head-to-head in a speed-difficulty comp. The route is on a 50 foot overhang graded at 5.14 and set up in a standard bracket form. 2014 was the first and it was fantastic and thanks in great part to Louder Than 11 for broadcasting it live. Get in on the action as the event is slated to be even bigger this year.
Watch It!
Sportrock Beat the Heat X:
August 8th – If you like gym comps the way they used to be; cheap, fun, tons of schwag, and an after party, then you need to get down to Alexandria for this event. It is $15 for non-members and it is FREE for Sportrock members. I have participated in every Beat the Heat because it always the same weekend around my birthday and it is always a blast. Great setting by Jeremy Hardin (nationally ranked setter) and his team in a great gym.
Mid Atlantic Climbers RockFest:
August 28-30 – RockFest has been rescheduled for the last weekend in August! Get you work gloves, yoga mat, and climbing shoes ready for a weekend of service, climbing, and all things healthy. Included in the event is breakfast by Solid Rock – Climbers for Christ, lunch by Pies and Pints, and beer for dinner by Mountain State Brewing.
