Below you will find eighteen questions regarding the different aspects of climbing. Record the number value of each answer and then add them all together at the end to get your final score. Your score will show how well you fair in the Crank Characteristic of Climbing. It is the longest assessment to complete but will give you a detailed outline of what you should be focusing on to keep improving. Answer the 18 questions below and fill in the values to gain your Climbing Characteristic Score.
1) From the ground or a rest stance, I have difficulty picturing the movement (hand, feet, body positions, and/or order of operations) needed to complete the route/problem/pitch/ section.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
2) When climbing, I feel like most of my weight is held by my hands and/or most of my power comes from arms.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
3) I have experience (more than 5 sessions) with the following types of climbing: bouldering, top-rope, sport clean, sport lead, traditional single-pitch follow, traditional single-pitch lead, traditional multi-pitch follow, traditional multi-pitch lead, big wall, ice/mixed.
1. 1-2
2. 3-4
3. 5-6
4. 7-8
5. 9-10
4) When climbing, I have a difficult time meeting my body’s needs; including the need to rest, shake out my arms, breathe, and/or relieve tension or instability (“Elvis-leg”) in my lower body.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
5) Even when I am able to find a rest stance, I still find it difficult to regain enough strength and/or composure to complete the route/problem/pitch/section.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
6) I have experience with a variety of locales and conditions in my climbing career. Examples include indoor facilities, regions/countries, weather/seasonal conditions, rock types (i.e. – sandstone, granite, gneiss, schist, limestone, etc.).
1. 0-3
2. 4-6
3. 7-9
4. 10-12
5. 13-15
7) When climbing through the crux of a route/problem, I find that I forget to breathe, over grip, and/or forget my intended sequence.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
8) I am familiar with and have effectively used the following hold types and hand positions on at least five (5) routes/problems at my on-sight level: jug, edge, crimp, sloper, pocket, pinch, side pull, undercling, gaston, and presses.
1. 0-2
2. 3-4
3. 5-6
4. 7-8
5. 9-10
9) My average on-sight level is much lower than my average red-point level on a variety of terrains (See questions #12 and #17 for terrain list). *Hint: two (2) grades if climbing 5.9/V2 or lower, three (3) grades if climbing 5.10a/V3-5.12d/V8, four (4) grades if climbing 5.13a/V9 or higher.
1. Almost Always
2. Frequently
3. About half the time
4. Occasionally
5. Seldom or Never
10) When watching someone else on the route/problem I want to do, I make mental notes of key sequences and hidden holds for my future attempt.
1. Seldom or Never
2. Occasionally
3. About half the time
4. Frequently
5. Almost Always
11) When climbing, I find that I can achieve a position to release and shake out my hands/arms.
1. Seldom or Never
2. Occasionally
3. About half the time
4. Frequently
5. Almost Always
12) I am experienced with and have effectively climbed at least five (5) routes/problems at my on-sight level on following terrains: slab, flat, overhung, roof/inverted, crack/off-width, chimney, dihedral, arête, ledge/top-out, traverse.
1. 0-2
2. 3-4
3. 5-6
4. 7-8
5. 9-10
13) When climbing, if my intended sequence or position feels awkward, I find that I can reposition or rethink the movement to find a more comfortable and efficient progression or stance.
1. Seldom or Never
2. Occasionally
3. About half the time
4. Frequently
5. Almost Always
14) I am familiar with and have effectively used each of the following techniques on at least five (5) routes/problems at my on-sightlevel: cross through/over, step through/over, drop knee, twist lock, heel hook, toe hook/bat hang, bicycle, layback, stemming, smearing, edging, crack/off-width jams, deadpoint/dyno, figure 4/figure 9, and mantle/top-out.
1. 0-3
2. 4-6
3. 7-9
4. 10-12
5. 13-15
15) I try to challenge myself through various activities including, but not limited to competitions, road trips, games such as take away or add-on, training circuits, and/or climbing with a stronger group or partner.
1. Seldom or Never
2. Occasionally
3. About half the time
4. Frequently
5. Almost Always
16) When climbing above a bolt, piece of protection, the ground, or a ledge, I find that I tend to focus on the necessary movement rather than the fall potential.
1. Seldom or Never
2. Occasionally
3. About half the time
4. Frequently
5. Almost Always
17) I am familiar with and have effectively climbed a similar (read: within one (1) to three (3) grades) on-site/red-pointlevel over the following terrains: slab, flat, overhung, roof/inverted, crack/off-width, chimney, dihedral, arête, ledge/top-out, traverse.
1. 0-2
2. 3-4
3. 5-6
4. 7-8
5. 9-10
18) My average on-site rating is:
Beginner/< 1 Year Recreational/>1 Year Experienced/Competitive
1. <5.6/VB 1. <5.6/VB 1. <5.10c/V3
2. 5.7/V0 2. 5.7-5.9/V0-V1 2. 5.10d-5.11b/V4-V5
3. 5.8/V1 3. 5.10a-5.10c/V2-V3 3. 5.11c-5.12a/V6-V7
4. 5.9/V2 4. 5.10d-5.11b/V4-V5 4. 5.12b-5.12d/V8-V9
5. 5.10+/V3 5. 5.11c-5.12a/V6-V7 5. >5.13a/V10
Total up the values of each answer to see your score for the Crank Characteristic of Climbing:
Q 1 _______ Q 2 _______ Q 3 _______ Q 4 _______ Q 5 _______ Q 6 _______
Q 7 _______ Q 8 _______ Q 9 _______ Q 10 _______ Q 11 _______ Q 12 _______
Q 13 _______ Q 14 _______ Q 15 _______ Q 16 _______ Q 17 _______ Q 18 _______
Total: _______
18-33 – Needs Work. Consider finding a mentor to expedite your growth.
34-48 – Fair. Finding more time to climb with intent will improve your status.
49-62 – Average.You are building good habits and a good skill base. Stay focused!
63-76 – Above Average. A pretty standard weekend warrior, you should be proud.
77-90 – Excellent! You have good habits and should think about becoming a mentor.
Sub-characteristics
The Climbing Characteristic actually has three (3) sub-characteristics. To find how you scored for each of these, fill in the following value answers.
Mental Score Technique Score Expertise Sore
Q 1 _______ Q 2 _______ Q 3 _______
Q 4 _______ Q 5 _______ Q 6 _______
Q 7 _______ Q 8 _______ Q 9 _______
Q 10 _______ Q 11 _______ Q 12 _______
Q 13 _______ Q 14 _______ Q 15 _______
Q 16 _______ Q 17 _______ Q 18 _______
Total: _______ Total: _______ Total: _______
5-10 –Needs Work. You might consider some of the suggested reading or taking a class.
11-15 – Fair. This sub-characteristic is holding you back from reaching your potential.
16-20 – Average.You are on the right track, keep up the good work.
21-25 – Above Average. You have all the right pieces, now just fill it in.
26-30 – Excellent! Great job, you have serious edge with this sub-characteristic.
Aspects
Each of the three (3) sub-characteristics has three (3) of its own aspects. To find how you scored for each of these, fill in the following value answers.
Mental Aspects Technique Aspects Expertise Aspects
Sequencing Score Footwork Score Style Score
Q 1 _______ Q 2 _______ Q 3 _______
Q 10 _______ Q 11 _______ Q 12 _______
Total: _______ Total: _______ Total: _______
Needs Awareness Score Body Position Score Experience Score
Q 4 _______ Q 5 _______ Q 6 _______
Q 13 _______ Q 14 _______ Q 15 _______
Total: _______ Total: _______ Total: _______
Anxiety Control Score Terrain Score Strength Score
Q 7 _______ Q 8 _______ Q 9 _______
Q 16 _______ Q 17 _______ Q 18 _______
Total: _______ Total: _______ Total: _______
2-3 – Needs Work. Spend some time working on improving aspect before moving on.
4-5 – Fair. This could be better, but you are on your way.
6-7 – Average. Stay focused on this aspect and you should see all around improvement.
8-9 – Above Average. A few tweaks and this aspect will soon be perfected.
10 – Excellent! Nice work, you have this aspect locked down!
In the next post we will look at each of these questions and some tips to improve each of your answers. Think a question was poorly worded? Please let me know in the comments! I may be author, but group consensus and appeal is better than just my editor reading it.
-Tylor Streett, MS, NASM-CPT, PES